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mattp

[TR] Castle Rock, Leavenworth - Several 6/10/2012

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Trip: Castle Rock, Leavenworth - Several

 

Date: 6/10/2012

 

Trip Report:

Good times at Castle Rock today.

 

This is one of the first placed I visited in Leavenworth, decades ago, and it remains one of my favorite. Great climbing with fantastic views, easy access, and the top of the rock feels like a small mountain summit. Here is Shawn, topping out on the ancient classic, Midway. Midway.jpg

 

On the lower part of the Rock, Stephen led Brass Balls. Here he goes on the lower of the double overhangs.

BrassBalls.jpg

 

There are good climbs to be had at Castle Rock!

 

For those inclined to do Midway, check out my topo. I would recommend avoiding the chimney on pitch 2 that is shown to be the way to go in all modern guidebooks. It is not the way Fred and company went in 1948 and it is not the best way to go today.

 

midway topo.

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

This place is trad.

 

Approach Notes:

As easy as it gets. There are good trails leading 5 minutes to the lower Castle Rock, and 20 minutes to the upper Castle Rock. Walk off from the top.

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Nice Matt! I agree, Castle Rock has it all. Back in the day we'd go there 3 weekends in a row, climbing everything up through the nines. Then we'd head up to Midnight and repeat. It usually took me a trip to the valley to get ready for Brass Balls. A lot of those routes are old friends. It's like going to Thanksgiving dinner with the relatives. I'd shake my cousins hand and remember what a cool dude he was. On Castle, you grab that crux jug on (insert route name here) and think: yeah...I remember you!

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agreed! even living in Leavenworth over thirty years now, Castlerock remains at the top of my favorites list. I never get tired of it!

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Brass Balls is the real deal. It has one of those old friend holds on it, alright, but I was content to snap some photos and meet my buddies up at Midway Ledge with sandwiches and water yesterday.

 

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Just the other day my 8 month pregnant wife and I hiked to the summit and had a picnic. We soaked in the incredible views, made some new friends topping out on Angel Crack, and sat there day-dreaming about our bun in the oven. Just never gets old heading up to castle, even if you don't climb an inch.

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Just the other day my 8 month pregnant wife and I

 

Holy Crap! Congratulations old man! Welcome to the club, it's an exhausting but wonderful one!

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Thx buddy, it's a GIRL!

 

Maybe I'll do a FA and name it after her ;)

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Matt,

In your topo, you say Midway Direct goes straight up from the jello tower step across. It's true that if you go to the top of the shallow dihedral...at about 50 feet it blanks out. But from that spot, if you traverse left, there is some lovely face climbing protected with small wired nuts (5/16 inch) that takes you up to easier ground and joins, eventually, with Angel. It's only 5.6 or so climbing, but very steep and exposed...a great "girlfriend" route. The holds are big incut gym type holds. Super fun climbing.

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You must be a twisted soul, KK. That slot is a wretched affair. I wouldn't even take my dog up it. Have you tried the original route?

 

 

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I agree, Mark. The variation called Midway Direct is good "girlfriend climbing." It is not a good beginning leader variation, though. I could refine that drawing a bit but I tried to show the fact that you have to move left when that corner above Jello Tower runs out.

 

I used to climb the "Direct Direct" a lot. I can't remember for sure but I'm wondering if there was another bolt on it in the 1980's.

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You must be a twisted soul, KK. That slot is a wretched affair. I wouldn't even take my dog up it. Have you tried the original route?

 

 

Nope. I've only done it twice, and both times I went up the chimney. I'll try your route the next time I am up there.

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Just the other day my 8 month pregnant wife and I

 

Holy Crap! Congratulations old man! Welcome to the club, it's an exhausting but wonderful one!

 

sorry for the off-topic comment, matt...

ditto on the congrats, Sol! super cool!

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