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icicle canyon ice


haireball

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the funnel is in. I soloed the standard Hubba-hubba falls line on the 28th, and Jeff Ward, a guide for the latest guide concession in der worth soloed a line about 100' to the right. there was also a rope of 2 from Portland on the Hubba-hubba line, but there's plenty of room and enough features for two parties to climb safely on that line. As of today, there are at least four independent lines in, yielding 2+ pitches each. there has been some traffic to the base, so an approach trail is getting established. I used snowshoes both yesterday and today, saw other parties post-holing. pick your poison. ice is shallow, so you gotta hunt around a bit for screw placements - but that is changing rapidly.

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THere was a posting. I dont know where. I went over there NYEve and looked at it. Partners climbed it day before on Hubba and did not sound like fat stuff. I declined and went to Index instead. I heard the Drury and Pencil climbs are formed but hard to see due to clouds and fog. Never know for sure though wink.gif" border="0

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On Wednesday, Hubba Hubba was doable, but not very worth the drive in my opinion. The lower part (100 ft) was thin, and the rest was inch thick rotten ice or slush on rock slab. There was ice on drury, but we thought it still looked way too thin. Also, it was about 33 degrees in Icicle and Tumwater Canyons.

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Haireball,

I've heard of a small canyon a short ways up Mountaineer Cr. Aproached from Mountaineer Cr. Road above Bridge Cr. Campground. Rumored to have some fun ice climbs.

Just wondering if anyone has been up there this year, and what you might know about conditions as the season progresses. Keep the reports coming.

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I posted this report in another section on this site but thought it would be better here.

Hubba is thin throughout. Take only 17cm or shorter screws. tie off screamers good idea. Leave the snowshoes at home unless it snows lots. Pins for the belay would be nice or find the holes I punched through the hollow ice near the only pillar there.

If it snows alot, beware of avi condition on the walk off. The slopes are steep enough to go big.

have fun and be safe

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I posted the following a couple of days ago in another forum but since there is a lot of interest in this climb it bears repeating (especially the warning about snow loading) - many years ago I was avalached on this climb and IMHO the conditions are getting getting ripe for it to go. Genepires' comments about the walk off are correct but the climb itself is also very avalanche prone. Anyway, here is my earlier post:

We were the party on the main flow on new years day and compared to other years the ice is definitely not fat. We did the climb in two 60 meter pitches instead of the normal 3 as I simply couldn't find good enough ice for a belay at the usual spot. We used 3 pins on the first pitch and belayed from 3 more - screws were pretty short or tied off.The first half of each pitch was good ice (altho there was water running under it) - the second half was either very thin or snow over the rock. Friends did a smear to the left (and also used some rock pro) and said they enjoyed it: it looked like the far right was also thin but climbable.

Avy conditions on tuesday were moderate (little spin drift things comming down most of the day) but I'm sure it really loaded up last night. Remember the orginal name of this climb is "the Funnel" and you belay from the top of the avalanche cone ...

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Climbed Hubba Hubba on Sat morning under a cloudy and foggy sky. It was fairly warm, maybe about 34-36F. Took a line up the right side of the central flow. Never used a screw as the ice went from thin and wet to vapor thin and wetter. Pins and nuts became my buddies including the ones on my rack.

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  • 1 month later...

hubba hubba climbs are in but thin....although the nw av report depicts otherwise, avalanche danger is locally extreme on that mountain side right now.

...this is yesterdays report...

..we all lucked out as we stood and watched the funnel vomit train loads of snow as we loaded our packs...... up close and personal..

...two just finished the main ice flow, hiked up the funnel to the decent and were at the packs, the other two were rapping trees lookers left after finishing left line, one dangling the other just walked under the funnel to the packs....it puked twice while we were right there...the last rapper past under the fuka between vomits....it puked again while we weer on our way down through the woods, this time the shit was grey..

..another chimney above the typical aproach also puked while we descended....

my honest opinion...if you want to climb east of the crest on north/northeast exposure...look for recent debris...if it hasn't scoured within the past couple days...it will...

..the funnel itself may be done vomitting but the rest of the mountainside is probably not..

go rock climbing

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Listen up, guys. We don't want nobody getting burried on Hubba Hubba Hill. But wait and see what happens with the weather this week before making your plans. Yesterday, Sunday, was pretty warm over there and the snow was wet all the way up to about 4500 feet. Here's a picture taken on Saturday, 2/16.

hubba.jpg

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