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Lillowet


Cpt.Caveman

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In Serl/Kay guide Shreddie is the "unclimbed ice dagger" located in the deep slot right of the Rambles. It was climbed just after Trevor Petersen died and was named for him. closet Secrets takes the ice flows to the left of Shreddie up into the 'closet' and then out the left side and can't be seen from the road hence the name. Both got FAs in the winter of 1995-1996 like a good proportion of the other stuff on the Duffy that wasnt done in the 80's.

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Lillooet Conditions as of 1/16:

Colder weather for sure, overall things are looking pretty thin, but climbs are now reforming.

1/14 - Climbed The Dihedral? (last climb to the left in the Icy BC area, I was not sure if it was Waite for Spring?) it was a bit thin and technical with a good amount of hooking, okay pro.

Examined Icy BC, lower section fine, second and third pitches had open water and still forming.

1/15 - Did Night N' Gale, from the road it looked like the best ice to climb and it was in great shape. Ascend on large frozen ice balls (avi debris). Descent was kinda rough, river crossing nice and toasty!

1/16 - Headed back to Marble Canyon, climbed first pitch. Second pitch now closed and looking good. Upper pitch has small open section, but does not look too bad. TR'd some fun mixed stuff (Waite for Spring?).

We also spent a fair amount of time exploring, and here's what we saw:

Honeyman Falls - Partially formed, but still open and running at the top.

Deeping Wall - Lower 4' or missing except for small icicle that has touched down. First 30' about 2-4" thick, and choppy.

Shriek of the Sheep - Formed, but upper section looks a bit thin ???

Synchronicity - Or "The Syncro" as a girl from the mile-O called it! Ramp section completely missing (wet mixed climbing!) and the rest looks pretty bad. I am glad I did it last season!

Carl's Berg - First pitched formed, but thin a hard 5 for sure and still open above that.

Isodorth Gully - Looked pretty good, plenty of ice to climb. Nice loose, wet snow avi debris at the bottom! (now frozen of course).

Phair Creek - Headed down past the B & B to to right and hit a 50' section of solid ice! Scary, not much snow on the road, but the ice was enough to make us turn back!

We had a great three days, plenty to climb when there is no one else up there (amazingly we did not see any other climbers in three days, gotta love that!)

Dan E.

[ 01-17-2002: Message edited by: dan e ]

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