Cpt.Caveman Posted December 30, 2001 Share Posted December 30, 2001 Botanie Falls Looks good from the road. Take snowshoes, snow is deep.Synchronicity Looked climbable. Last section above the trees might be harder than normal.Spray Creek Falls In.Rambles In with a little wetness but very fun.Cherry Ice was well formed. Climbed it Wednesday afternoon.Honeyman Falls had large holes and lots of water. Still forming.Deeping Wall is a thin toprope, dry tool moves at the start.Icy BC Pitch one was forming more layers. Upper pitches reportedly dry as of thursday.Waite For Spring getting better and is still two lines.The Dihedral is in.Twilight Tiers might be in. Can't see it all from the road.The Tube was very chandeliered.Loose Lady looked real hard.Carl's Berg was forming a little more. Perhaps someone will climb it? [ 12-29-2001: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesse_mason Posted January 7, 2002 Share Posted January 7, 2002 i was up there from the 1-3 of jan 2002, all the climbs you mentioned were the same or worse. oregon jack was probably the best one i visited, as far as conditions go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 7, 2002 Author Share Posted January 7, 2002 Bummer I hope it freezes ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daler Posted January 7, 2002 Share Posted January 7, 2002 climbed at Marble the 5th and 6th. Ice is still healthy with the high on Saturday of 33F and 36f on Sunday. Climbed IcBc skipping the 2nd pitch because of water spout. The 3rd pitch was thick with fun climbing. Also climbed the pillar to the right in fine conditions.I led the deeping wall, although i wouldn't reccomend it as I did not get good gear until almost the halfway ledge. The ice was only a couple inches thick for 40 feet or so, with a couple of rock moves to start. The Dihedral is still forming.No deductible is the best i've seen in awhile with only 25 feet of poor gear in the middle. dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 7, 2002 Author Share Posted January 7, 2002 Did anyone see Crack and Lambone? I know those lovers were there Yeah I find that with even +6 C (in Lillooet) I could still climb in certain areas from this year and last. You just have to know where.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crack Posted January 7, 2002 Share Posted January 7, 2002 lillooet was really, really warm. marble canyon is still fat, except deeping wall -thin but still getting led. the lake is bomber. carl's berg was good but with lots of stuff coming down. sychronicity had a few pitches of good ice but don't count on "unbelievable amounts" -the ice bridge is not in but you can still shortcut the approach wading through the river about a hundred yards up -freakin' cold but good fun. we heard rambles was thin and oregon jack was fat. it's pretty slow up there, i suppose everyone's waiting for a cold snap -good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade Posted January 7, 2002 Share Posted January 7, 2002 The Rambles in in and in no way "thin". The upper steeper pitches are wet but it's all good. Most of the other routes we looked at don't seem to have improved since New Year, based on Cpt's description, Carlsburg might have even gotten worse, the RHS seemed to have a lot of holes in it. It was raining in Lilloette when we left at dusk on Sunday night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 7, 2002 Author Share Posted January 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by daler: climbed at Marble the 5th and 6th.I led the deeping wall, although i wouldn't reccomend it as I did not get good gear until almost the halfway ledge. The ice was only a couple inches thick for 40 feet or so, with a couple of rock moves to start.dale Ice Ninja Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 7, 2002 Share Posted January 7, 2002 Lilooet kicks ass. Carlsburg is definately protectable, but beware of falling Ice. The second to last pitch of Syncro is scetchy at the top, very thin and hollow tube. Last pitch in the trees looks to be the same. First slabby pitches are hard to protect, but short. Crack is a funny muther fucker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted January 9, 2002 Share Posted January 9, 2002 Not much to add to the comments above, except that: -Cherry Ice was in but melting fast. At it's narrowest point near the top of the first step, the ice was about 4' wide and about 6" deep. Above the low-angle ice went on for about 50 feet or so before petering out. Honeyman Falls was still forming. The whole left side of the falls was running when we checked it out, and much of the falls above the first step appear to be running also. The ice on the right side seems to be forming well but was quite slushy at the base. I was up there from the 2nd to the 4th and experienced the warm temps and wet conditions. Didn't climb nearly as much as I would like to have, but thankfully the ice isn't quite as scarce out here in CO. I have some good beta on lodging, though. The Mile-O rocks. We paid $48 per night for a two-bedroom kitchenette with one of those jacuzzi-tubs with the "Ice Climbers Discount." They have also started a conditions log for climbers staying there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 9, 2002 Share Posted January 9, 2002 The last few days have set 90-year high temperature records. I wouldnt expect much of Lillooet this weekend. Cold temps (ARCTIC FRONT) may arrive Tuesday-ish according to the weatherman. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Parker Posted January 10, 2002 Share Posted January 10, 2002 With the up coming icefest approaching fast, anyone have an up date for Lillowet? It sure seemed warm recently! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 10, 2002 Author Share Posted January 10, 2002 I dont know man but Lambone and Crack did not make a report. Check out CASBC at http://casbc.bivouac.com/ice0102.htm#CURRENT Lambone and Crack climbed Synchronicity and Carl's Berg last weekend. I am heading up this weekend. Will let you know what it's like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 10, 2002 Share Posted January 10, 2002 I report that it is worth the drive, there are plenty of routes to fill a long weekend. Bring good rain gear as the routes we did were fully raining, get a room at the mile-o to dry out gear (nescecity). I reported the conditions of the routes we did above. I'll stress again, watch for falling Ice on Carlsberg! A boatload of huge chunks came flying over my head while I was run out 3/4 of the way up the pitch. I shit my pants... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 11, 2002 Share Posted January 11, 2002 Lilloet this weekend is gonna be all about 40 people on 4 routes (Marble, Rambles, Oregon Jack & maybe NightNGale I would guess...or if you could get into Phair it might be OK) all weekend. saturday forecast is for rain and high of + 5. sunday should be colder high 2 low -4 and partly sunny. i am gonna give the lillooet ice a chance to reform and go check out some alpine cirques up the hope princeton for ice. check the forecast for yourself weatheroffice.ec.gc.ca Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 11, 2002 Author Share Posted January 11, 2002 Good for you I am gonna chop some stuff up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 11, 2002 Share Posted January 11, 2002 Look out for the 400 lb ice blocks I have seen them come off of Honeyman & Carls Berg before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted January 11, 2002 Share Posted January 11, 2002 talked to lyle last nite: he tells me he reckons it hasn't gone below freezing in lillooet even overnight for 3 weeks. that's in town of course, and marble, the duffey, and the bridge will be cooler; but if you're going up this weekend, expect WET! and be careful with falling ice and rocks...looks like it might start to cool out on sunday;see: http://weatheroffice.ec.gc.ca/scripts/citygen.pl?client=ECCDN_e&city=WKF enjoy, cheers, don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 11, 2002 Author Share Posted January 11, 2002 Freeze Freeze Freeze now. What the heck Global Warming Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafael_H Posted January 12, 2002 Share Posted January 12, 2002 BTW, Lillo'wet is a small town around Pemberton, south on 99 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heinouscling Posted January 14, 2002 Share Posted January 14, 2002 Sprague (a CC.com lurker) and I did the left side of The Rambles Saturday (Jan 12). The top pitch was most excellent and fun climbing (hard 3+ or easy 4 conditions). We were able to find a couple of different, but interesting, lines up it. We checked out The Marble Sunday and did the first pitch of IcyBC. There was some airy, chandeliery stuff in the middle which may have introduced a bit of WI4 climbing. The second pitch was basically a very unfrozen waterfall, but the third pitch looked fun. We then set up a TR on the Deeping wall. As Dale suggested, not recommended for leading due to the absense of protection for the first 35 feet or so. Of coarse, protection is all a matter of perspective, right? Ice conditions on the Deeping were about perfect. Great, plasticky, thin ice but probably a little thicker since Dale did it. Also, late Sunday (Jan 13) it was getting noticibly colder, especially in The Marble. I think the much "sought after" cold front may have arrived. CLIMB HARD!! -Heinous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 14, 2002 Author Share Posted January 14, 2002 Right on Cling! Good work. And dont listen to Lamebitchboner when he implies Rambles is a wuss area Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 14, 2002 Share Posted January 14, 2002 "shreddie" and "closet Secrets" are at the Rambles and the former at least is WI6 the latter is multipitch WI4 or 4+ I think?. some easy route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 14, 2002 Author Share Posted January 14, 2002 Wooo hoo ! It looks like a cold forecast! http://cbc.ca/cgi-bin/weather.cgi?Lillooet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafael_H Posted January 14, 2002 Share Posted January 14, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Heinouscling: Sprague (a CC.com lurker... Lurker with such a name... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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