Climzalot Posted December 19, 2001 Share Posted December 19, 2001 Just got back from an 8 day trip to the Rockies. Tons of stuff to do up there. Best bet for a wide selection of climbs is still the Icefields Parkway. Many other areas are coming along nicely and worth visiting. Feel free to email me if you want more specific beta. Enjoy cgentzel@aai.cc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geordie Posted December 22, 2001 Share Posted December 22, 2001 Just got back from week long trip myself. Cascade, Grotto, Haffner, Junkyards all worth checking out. Ice may be thin for the Canadian Rockies, but CC folks will find plenty to do. GR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verticalturtle Posted December 30, 2001 Share Posted December 30, 2001 Here's the strait poop: IN= Cascade Rogansgrotto + his & hersKidd FallsBridge too farGuiness GullyWeeping Wall LowerSniveling GullyMurchison FallsBalfour WallWilson MajorLady Wilson's Clevage (all covered w/ avy debris)Two O'clockShades of BeautyPolar Circus OUT Kitty HawkMixed MasterMost of Upper Weeping WallSpirit of Crazy HorseHydrophobia2nd pitch of Shooting StarOh le Tabernack The list is certainly not complete but this is what I can confirm from a 2 week trip that just ended. Snow was on its way so more may come in soon. I sure hope so.vt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 2, 2002 Share Posted January 2, 2002 spent 12/25-1/1 in Banff. weather: clear and very cold, ranging from -15 to -25C in cold places. In Golden, Pretty Nuts, Riverview, Essondale Left are in but a little thinner than usual, as has been mentioned. In Field, Mt Dennis climbs: only Guiness. Pilsner and Carlsberg are both not really in. Many Yoho climbs looked in from the road. Silk Tassel not in. Mt Stephen climbs looked OK, including Masseys and SuperBok On the Icefields Parkway: Bow Falls is in, Ulis is not. Wet Dream in. Balfour Wall in. Cosmic Messenger and Bison Falls in. Murchison in but horrendously wet. Most Mt Wilson climbs not in. Ice Nine coming along well. Riptide in. Lower Weeping "in" but Weeping Left in perhaps the worst shape I have seen it in a long time. Weeping Pillar in. Snivelling in. Mixed Master not. Polar Circus in. Panther Falls in. Bridal Veil in first tier, very thin 2nd tier. In the David Thomson: 2 Oclock in, 570 in, Nothing but the Breast not in. Lake Louise/Banff. Cascade is in with little hazard from above until the next cycle. I heard Professors was not in yet. Rundle climbs not in. VerticleTurle lists most of the other Banff climbs (above). Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 3, 2002 Share Posted January 3, 2002 i was there and i can add that gibralter falls is in. best ice on the left (and most parties) chandeliers on the very right (that i avoided with sketchy verglas rock climbing with a tied off hand placed spectre for pro). my tick list: 22 - Cascade and junkyards23 - Bridal Veil (Panther had a gushing hole and Wll Gadd on the M9 next to it)24 - Snivelling gully. ran into Pervertical Turtle in the hut that night.25 - weeping wall left. hollow, hollow, hollow... my first WI 4 lead 26- "rest day". coffee and Canmore.27- Bow Falls28- 25 people in Grotto so we did some WI3s at Heart Creek29 - simul soloed Sinatra Falls and spent 2 hrs trying to solo some m5 corner up above it. got sanity and backed off.30 - Gibraltar wall. road in is very icy, 2wd ok , low clearance sorta Ok, but you might want chains if you dont have 4wd. i only went off the road once in my subaru 31- kicking horse. pretty nuts, lady killer, essondales all busy so we hiked around for 3 hrs looking for waterworks and later realized we were in the wrong drainage. drove to lillooet1 - texas creek, lots of thin smears. no texas 2 step. rambled up a side creek on wi 2 ice and dead logs. I love ice climbing. 2 weeks of it took an inch off my waist and $270 out of my wallet. [ 01-03-2002: Message edited by: Dru ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 3, 2002 Share Posted January 3, 2002 To contradict VerticalTurtle, I heard that Kitty Hawk was in, cause we ran into some guys in the hostel that had just climbed it, the day before he showed up. Maybe it fell down since then or something but we did hear it was in and people were doing it. Also even though Mixed master is not in, the Blender is in (see Seans guide) and someone did it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verticalturtle Posted January 3, 2002 Share Posted January 3, 2002 Dru,I think it just got too much sun (k hawk). There was avy debris covering the bottom pitch which allowed us to walk to the steep bit and would have been 1.5 pitches. the bottom pitch was verglass and would/ could be done w pins. The top pitch was pretty thin too; it had a small pillar about a foot or less in diameter that looked like it would break if you were not real carefull. I do believe that it had been done as there were old melted out signs of travel, and that it could be done now even but it would involve as much rock as ice. Probably more. Nice tick list by the way. How was Gibralter? I was there on the 17th and the central line was less than 1cm thick with lots of water underneath. vt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 3, 2002 Share Posted January 3, 2002 Hey VT, Gibraltar had "just come in" on the 30th, looked like it had ben in for 3-4 days. Left side was fat and blue, center- right side was kinda chandeliered. Not many abalakovs and not yet beaten on. Yeah I guess sun did in Kitty Hawk cause like I said, some guys told us they did it on the 23rd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daler Posted January 4, 2002 Share Posted January 4, 2002 kitty kawk doesn't see much sun. are you sure you were looking at the right climb. It takes about 1 hour to get to the base. dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verticalturtle Posted January 4, 2002 Share Posted January 4, 2002 yup we had the right one. I know it only gets a little sun in the morning, I don't know what else would make it so anorexic. So the sun thing was an assumption. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Posted January 5, 2002 Share Posted January 5, 2002 Hey Dru, I think Waterworks is about 500 m east of Pretty Nuts. Park on west side of the first bridge east of Golden, and hike under bridge along train tracks for less than five minutes and you can see the ice on the north side of the tracks. Its just east of the Asylum (featured in Beyond Gravity), if that helps any. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Posted January 7, 2002 Share Posted January 7, 2002 RE Waterworks. I was talking to a friend about it today and he agreed that what I was referring to was the essondale routes. Never been to the area with a guidebook, always with a friend from Field, who apparently doesn't know the names of the local routes. So what is waterworks? Grade 3? I'm only biding my time in Port Alice until the Americans (GO AMERICA!) stop slandering our forest industry and start buying our wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 7, 2002 Share Posted January 7, 2002 Thomas according to the guidebook Waterworks is like 350m east of LADY KILLER!!. We could see ice when approaching on Hwy but we hiked up into the wrong area somehow. Think we should have parked in next pullout E of Lady killer instead of at base. Isnt the ice you are referring (near Asylum) to, essondale L & R ????? PS port alice, you poor bastard, how do you survive? I worked there one summer. NEVER AGAIN!!!!!!!!! +8 C and raining all year long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 7, 2002 Share Posted January 7, 2002 ya waterworks is a 2 star, 100m grade 3 somewhere between lady killer (that gully 2km west of the bridge) and pretty nuts (the roadside ice by the bridge). i bet capt. can make something out of those names! your nearest ice in port alice would be... mt washington? 8 hr drive? or is there some obscure stuff up in the tsitika? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Posted January 8, 2002 Share Posted January 8, 2002 Haven't even tried to find ice on the island. I just suck it up and drive to Golden or LittleWet. No partners up there anyhow. Know of any Forest Companies in the Fraser Valley that are hiring? No....I didn't think so.....oh well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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