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Glacier rope


perryn2

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Hello!

1) I just got an 8.1 mm dry half rope for glacier ascents similar to Baker, Shucksan or Reinear. Is this an appropriate rope to use?

2) Also last time I was on Shucksan I rappelled down the summit pyramid. Could I do similar short raps on one 8.1 mm half rope?

Thanks,

Nick

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whichever prusik solution you choose, you WILL test it before your first trip, yes?

 

I've used single half and twin ropes for going light on alpine trips for decades. On moderate-angled ground where the load of a fall would be relatively light, it's most likely adequate. If in any doubt, just double it over and climb shorter pitches. you're on the right track...

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Consider using 5mm cord or dyneema slings and a kleimheist instead of a prusik.

 

EDIT: A Garda hitch for your waist is useful too, especially if you want to leave excess gear at home.

Edited by chris
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