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perryn2

Glacier rope

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Hello!

1) I just got an 8.1 mm dry half rope for glacier ascents similar to Baker, Shucksan or Reinear. Is this an appropriate rope to use?

2) Also last time I was on Shucksan I rappelled down the summit pyramid. Could I do similar short raps on one 8.1 mm half rope?

Thanks,

Nick

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A half rope is perfect for these purposes. My preferred length is 50 meters.

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If you fold the rope in half, you then can use your 6mm prusiks to climb doubled over rope in the event you fall into a crevasse. Otherwise the prusiks won't bite into a single strand of 8.1 mm.

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whichever prusik solution you choose, you WILL test it before your first trip, yes?

 

I've used single half and twin ropes for going light on alpine trips for decades. On moderate-angled ground where the load of a fall would be relatively light, it's most likely adequate. If in any doubt, just double it over and climb shorter pitches. you're on the right track...

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+1 on 5mm prussiks and more wraps. When I am buying prussik cord I buy the most supple cord I can find, I think it makes a difference.

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Consider using 5mm cord or dyneema slings and a kleimheist instead of a prusik.

 

EDIT: A Garda hitch for your waist is useful too, especially if you want to leave excess gear at home.

Edited by chris

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The petzl tribloc is my latest method of ascending a rope with the mini traxion to back it up. Foot loop with tribloc, mini traxion on waist.

 

These are my hauling system as well.

 

Now if I just had some climbing partners

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Now if I just had some climbing partners

 

This thread going to spray in 5...4...3...

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