perryn2 Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Hello! 1) I just got an 8.1 mm dry half rope for glacier ascents similar to Baker, Shucksan or Reinear. Is this an appropriate rope to use? 2) Also last time I was on Shucksan I rappelled down the summit pyramid. Could I do similar short raps on one 8.1 mm half rope? Thanks, Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 A half rope is perfect for these purposes. My preferred length is 50 meters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle_Flick Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 If you fold the rope in half, you then can use your 6mm prusiks to climb doubled over rope in the event you fall into a crevasse. Otherwise the prusiks won't bite into a single strand of 8.1 mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Water Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 or use a smaller diameter prusik.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeldonCrisis Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 or tie your prusik with four wraps rather than the more traditional three wraps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montypiton Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 whichever prusik solution you choose, you WILL test it before your first trip, yes? I've used single half and twin ropes for going light on alpine trips for decades. On moderate-angled ground where the load of a fall would be relatively light, it's most likely adequate. If in any doubt, just double it over and climb shorter pitches. you're on the right track... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 +1 on 5mm prussiks and more wraps. When I am buying prussik cord I buy the most supple cord I can find, I think it makes a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perryn2 Posted June 1, 2012 Author Share Posted June 1, 2012 Thanks everyone I will play around with different size prusik cord before my next trip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 (edited) Consider using 5mm cord or dyneema slings and a kleimheist instead of a prusik. EDIT: A Garda hitch for your waist is useful too, especially if you want to leave excess gear at home. Edited June 9, 2012 by chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Hobbick Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 The petzl tribloc is my latest method of ascending a rope with the mini traxion to back it up. Foot loop with tribloc, mini traxion on waist. These are my hauling system as well. Now if I just had some climbing partners Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bstach Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Now if I just had some climbing partners This thread going to spray in 5...4...3... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.