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RuMR

The old and the young...

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Kimmo STFU, do you even know the routes in question? Have you done them? Scarface is a 14a with a runout 11 slab finish and that finish bucked some hardy climbers in the past. If you are a chickenshit and have to clip next bolt while the last one is at your waist you will need to change your depends often. You don't get to climb 14a by sitting on your ass and playing video games or guitar. Training for stuff like that requires the same type of self motivation as competing in any sport. It would be like saying people can run marathon at 2:35- 2:40 because they have talent, which is bullshit. People run such times (good amateur) because they train enough, not because they have genetic superiority. It's the same with climbing. Most of people don't commit to such training, because it's hard and painful process, it's not because their bodies would not handle it.

Comparing climbing to playing a guitar is bullshit as well. My advice would be to go and try a few 14a and then voice your opinion.

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With regards to my snapping at Kevin about his post:

 

My reaction has a historical component to it given our past arguments regarding spraying. To me the term "spray" has very definite, chest beating, negative connotations and he is very very aware of my thoughts on this based on previous discussions.

 

He knew that he, himself, posting in this thread, using that term, was likely gonna get a reaction. Its funny that his post was deleted by the mods, and several others commented on it before i saw it as well.

 

 

Cheers,

Rudy

 

PS: Very inspired by these kids. Might actually get motivated to do something about my own sucky climbing these days!!!!

Edited by RuMR

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Easy Bob...Kimmo knows that route, and is himself a very accomplished climber and climbs with Sean...

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Kimmo STFU, do you even know the routes in question?

 

does it matter? i was simply questioning you about the necessity of "moral fiber" for climbing certain routes. why is moral fiber needed again?

 

You don't get to climb 14a by sitting on your ass and playing video games or guitar. Training for stuff like that requires the same type of self motivation as competing in any sport.

 

ummm, yeah? i don't think we ever had any disagreement here.

 

It would be like saying people can run marathon at 2:35- 2:40 because they have talent, which is bullshit. People run such times (good amateur) because they train enough, not because they have genetic superiority.

 

yeah not sure if anyone could ever run those times without ever running before, but i'll tell you what: certain genetics will make the task of running a 2:35 a hell of a lot easier vs. a differing genetic makeup. this one is a no-brainer. in other words, a dachsund will (generally) never ever outrun a whippet.

 

healthy humanoids don't have the physical variation that dogs do, but the point is relevant: a certain physiology is favored in a particular activity.

 

It's the same with climbing. Most of people don't commit to such training, because it's hard and painful process, it's not because their bodies would not handle it.

 

"most of people" probably don't have any desire to climb at that level. and of those who do, yes, i would say many are frightened/unsure of committing to the path required to do so. i'd also add that for some, it really isn't a question of "work". the path unfolds organically as they practice their passion. for them, it isn't a question of following certain strategies to achieve "results", rather a singular engagement in the very activity they continually enjoy!

 

Comparing climbing to playing a guitar is bullshit as well. My advice would be to go and try a few 14a and then voice your opinion.

 

i'm sure if you thought about it, you'd acknowledge that excelling at ANY pursuit has crossover for excelling at EVERY pursuit. dedication, love, continual engagement in said activity. anyone who is good at anything should know this. this isn't to say that if one is good at one thing, they can excel at another, but i do believe the process is the same regardless of pursuit. and since you keep making the comparative argument, i'm sure you are a virtuoso on the guitar;)

 

and yes, i have "tried a few 14a"; what opinion should i now be voicing?

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We spent a lot of time (well, i spent a lot of time hiking and belaying him, he spent a lot of time climbing) seeking out more runout "old school" climbs where he was operating in an uncomfortable space (for him) to get his grey matter ready. He invested a lot of time being uncomfortable. I had to practically browbeat him into this approach.

 

props to both of you. him for focus and determination, you for helping him along!

 

 

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