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thealoof

I need route and guidebook recommendations

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I'm an avid and experienced climber from Utah and will be visiting my brother in Seattle. He used to climb a lot but hasn't in years and I want to take him out for a climb while I'm there.

 

I'm looking for something that is 4-5 pitches and 5.6-5.9ish. The closer to Seattle the better. Is there anything like that on Mt. Si or along I-90? Is there anything closer than Leavenworth? I've looked on Mountain Project and Summitpost and have found a lot of lower fifth class routes (5.4-5.5) that are mostly scrambling with a a pitch or two of roped climbing thrown in. I'm looking for a more consistent rock climb.

 

Is there a good guidebook that would have what I'm looking for in it?

 

Thanks!

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not really close to seattle but s arete south early or beckey route on liberty bell in wash pass fits your bill, plus the views are stellar compared to anything along i90. go for quality vs convienence.

 

weekend rock by david whitelaw might be a good book for you.

 

darrington has some routes for you as well. silent running if you had slabbage skills.

 

zig zag in mt erie also. all in whitelaws book.

 

accept that you may have to drive 2 to 5 hours for what you want.

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Closer to Seattle I'd favor Zig Zag at Mount Eerie. It is only 2.3 pitches, but very scenic.

 

You could have an OK outing on Great Northern Slab at Index, too. Look at the route called Taurus. DGS, on the upper wall, is also good. Do the traverse right to the final short 5.9 finish. 3 pitches, full height on the upper wall, and a spectacular finish with a civilized walk off. Not bad.

 

In Darrington, I'd consider Till Broad Daylight to The Kone, on Three O'Clock Rock. Silent Running is great, but the slab crux might not be a good choice for someone's first outing.

 

In Leavenworth, the routes on Upper Castle Rock are really fantastic. Not 4-5 pitches, though. For a real classic crag the easiest thing is probably to go to Snow Creek Wall (5-6 pitches) and Outer Space or Orbit are your routes. But the entire package, with an approach hike, climb, descent and hike out are probably more than I would take an uninitiated climber on.

 

 

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Excellent advice above - not much to add.

 

"Da Toof" = CC.com-speak for The Tooth, near Snoqualimie Pass. South Face is a favorite mini alpine rock climb and a great choice if weather is agreeable.

 

+1 on Weekend Rock. Exactly what you need.

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A bit of an approach hike, try Static Point - "On-Line", easy slab (Monroe area). Or even the first 5-6 pitches of "IB" on Mt Garfield in the North Bend area. There is also Mt. Ingalls in the Cle Elum area, somewhat like "The Tooth" at Alpental - but a six mile approach. These would be easy multi-pitch, good views and not intimidating.

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Guy Peak Improbable traverse is pretty good you'd prob like it, but it is not sustained climbing.

 

Infinite Bliss might be good. I got the beta at Pro Ski Service in North Bend when I climbed it several years ago. I don't know if there is a guidebook for it.

 

Let us know what you decide to do.

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I also have the book "Weekend rock". It's great for planning routes exactly as you describe. 5.0-5.10 within a few hours drive of seattle is the scope of the book. I've found that some of the topos or photos are a little incomplete for keeping you on route for a climb that you may not have done before but most are good enough. It's certainly a great planning book and once you decide which areas you like you could supplement it with other more detailed books for your chosen area.

 

Off_Route

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