philfort Posted December 3, 2001 Share Posted December 3, 2001 Don't even *think* of going up there to look for ice yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highclimb Posted December 4, 2001 Share Posted December 4, 2001 phil you got any info on the peaks in that area? any freezing action going on? when do you think we will be able to get on those peaks? thanks Aidan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbb Posted December 4, 2001 Share Posted December 4, 2001 couldn't really see much up there Saturday due to clouds/snow, but the one time it opened up the East side of Denny (that big cliff) looked way plastered with snow. Things have been cold at the pass, but not cold enough for substantial waterice to form. Lots of icicles... I bet that the NF & NEB of Chair, and S/E routes on Guye will be in climable shape once this snow firms up. Who knows though, that could be until the christmas inversion! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfort Posted December 4, 2001 Author Share Posted December 4, 2001 There's some slushing action, not freezing action, going on. In Alpental valley. Don't know about the peaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleblebleb Posted December 4, 2001 Share Posted December 4, 2001 I hiked, er, snow-shoe-swam, to Snow Lake yesterday (Sunday). Excellent exercise, all that hip-deep post-holing with the snow shoes on. The weather was nice during that brief high-pressure period in the morning, and we got some cool views, but then it started dumping again. We saw some icicles but nothing climbable. I took some photos from the saddle above (south of) the Lake, here's one of the Chair. [ 12-03-2001: Message edited by: fleblebleb ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 4, 2001 Share Posted December 4, 2001 This winter is not quite like the last one........ The ice frenzy that went on last year probably will not occur this season. Meaning I don't think there will be as much ice. Lots of stuff might just be covered with snow. I think I remember Alpental flows had formed with little snow and the masses were out investigating last year. Just bust out the skis Yo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted December 4, 2001 Share Posted December 4, 2001 So it sounds like last year was kind of an oddity... Nice pic flebebeb...keep 'um comin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfort Posted December 4, 2001 Author Share Posted December 4, 2001 quote: Originally posted by highclimb: cpt,your joking ryte? this winter is going to be much more severe than the late one Last year at this time I think we had lots of clear (i.e. cold) nights to set things up. Not this year. Plus all that snowpack insulating the streams? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highclimb Posted December 5, 2001 Share Posted December 5, 2001 all this talk is making me sad ......why cant we just have a normal year!!!! lets send good omens to the winter gods! we should have a ritual or something Aidan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan_e Posted December 5, 2001 Share Posted December 5, 2001 This year is shaping up to be like a 'normal year', at least as far as I've experienced. Although snow level has been pretty low a bunch of times already this season, that's encouraging. I loved it last season, all the skiers were whining, but there was enough snow for ice. I hope we get a colder/drier spell soon. Dan E. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfort Posted December 5, 2001 Author Share Posted December 5, 2001 Hey, you know what, last year wasn't bad for skiing either. The Cascades already get more than enough snow, and the lack of precip last year actually made for a lot of nice powder days, since when it gets warm and wet, it ruins the snow, but when it stays dry (and warm), the powder lingers on the north slopes... lets pray for no snow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highclimb Posted December 5, 2001 Share Posted December 5, 2001 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highclimb Posted December 5, 2001 Share Posted December 5, 2001 cpt, your joking ryte? this winter is going to be much more severe than the late one Aidan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted December 5, 2001 Share Posted December 5, 2001 I think it will have more snow. Therefore covering all of those Alpental flows. It is certainly not as cold Yet. You are reading into something I did not say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 5, 2001 Share Posted December 5, 2001 quote: Originally posted by highclimb: cpt,your joking ryte? this winter is going to be much more severe than the late one Aidan Warmer and Dryer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highclimb Posted December 12, 2001 Share Posted December 12, 2001 Does any one have any current info on routes shaping up? how does it look up there? thanks, Aidan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted December 12, 2001 Share Posted December 12, 2001 vedy snowy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highclimb Posted December 12, 2001 Share Posted December 12, 2001 no ice huh? anybody clibed the routes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted December 13, 2001 Share Posted December 13, 2001 Despite the lack of rain last year the average temps were low. So there was good ice climbing but crappy skiing. Word to ice climbers Get some boards this year! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted December 22, 2001 Share Posted December 22, 2001 Went up into Alpental this morning. Its been pretty warm up there even with these last few cooler nights. Alpental Falls is running water.Kiddie Cliff is in but buried. You'll get a whole 20 ft of actual ice climbing in.There are some crazy looking thin icicles 100-200 yards downvalley of Kiddie Cliff, stuff that did not form last year, than certainly have potential if it keeps freezing. Wasnt able to scope out upper valley due to cloud cover and time. Snow is deep, but beaten snowshoe tracks all over the valley. Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highclimb Posted December 22, 2001 Share Posted December 22, 2001 nice! going up there tommrow ....will report on what we find Aidan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highclimb Posted December 23, 2001 Share Posted December 23, 2001 NE SLAB of Tooth - not in Ice in apental valley - either barried or give it another 2-3weeks nice skiing thought....if i wasnt in my damn leathers Aidan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ropeadope Posted December 23, 2001 Share Posted December 23, 2001 Headed up toward Chair about 6:00am, thinking (okay, wishing) there might be a climb in it. Two feet of powder on top of an icy layer with consolidated snow under that layer. Halfway between the Snow Lake divide and Source Lake, did a couple of Rutschblock tests on different aspects. All blocks sheared as soon as both feet were gently planted. I'd rate the slopes as unstable and probably will stay that way until some wet weather consolidates it. Based on this, I figured the north face of Chair was out of the question. The buttress might have gone, but it would have been a long slog on unstable slopes to get to the base of it. So we went to Denny's in North Bend and ate eggs instead. Will try the face in February, if it's in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Posted December 23, 2001 Share Posted December 23, 2001 Soloed the N face of Chair today, under brilliant, bluebird skies. There was some excavating on the last pitch to get down to the ice, but it is well cleared now. Overall, there was plenty of ice on the route. I would recommend jumping on it before it starts snowing again. I took a 60m 6mm, but if you are confident in your ability on the face then don't take a rope at all (The descent gully now has enough snow in it to be easily downclimbed). The NE buttress looked fine too, and there was one party on it. I did not think that avalanche conditions were at all high on the approach slopes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason_Martin Posted December 28, 2001 Share Posted December 28, 2001 Jammed up the North Face of Chair Peak yesterday. Great conditions! Northeast Buttress looks great. And the ski out afterward was spectacular. Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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