ClimbAndSki Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 Trip: Colchuck - North Buttress Couloir Date: 5/20/2012 Trip Report: First of all, I lost a crampon between the summit and the pass on the decent, if anyone finds it, please send me a private message. It must be at the bottom of a posthole because we retraced our steps to the summit and couldn’t find it so it might be a while before it melts out Conditions last weekend were great for a climb of the North Buttress Couloir on Colchuck. Lots of fun high dagger climbing on 50-60' snow. The route was all snow(no real ice), and was pretty sustained angle all the way to the summit. The route protected well with a running belay using pickets or rock pro (we used mostly pickets but the other rope team used mostly rock pro). From the notch of top of the couloir, you can do a climbing traverse right onto the NW face and stay on snow to within 20ft of the summit. Couloir from the bottom Part way up Almost at the summit Gear Notes: 2 tools, pickets. No snowshoes needed Approach Notes: Road is open and snow free, the first couple miles are snow free, pretty continuous snow from Stuart Lake junction. Lake is melting out although we saw a few people ski across it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 Trip: Colchuck - North Buttress Couloir Date: 5/20/2012 Trip Report: First of all, I lost a crampon between the summit and the pass on the decent, if anyone finds it, please send me a private message. It must be at the bottom of a posthole because we retraced our steps to the summit and couldn’t find it so it might be a while before it melts out Conditions last weekend were great for a climb of the North Buttress Couloir on Colchuck. Lots of fun high dagger climbing on 50-60' snow. The route was all snow(no real ice), and was pretty sustained angle all the way to the summit. The route protected well with a running belay using pickets or rock pro (we used mostly pickets but the other rope team used mostly rock pro). From the notch of top of the couloir, you can do a climbing traverse right onto the NW face and stay on snow to within 20ft of the summit. Couloir from the bottom Part way up Almost at the summit Gear Notes: 2 tools, pickets. No snowshoes needed Approach Notes: Road is open and snow free, the first couple miles are snow free, pretty continuous snow from Stuart Lake junction. Lake is melting out although we saw a few people ski across it. I've heard another fun go from the notch to the summit is to run the ridge - all on rock, 5.fun. Does the ridge proper look melted out now to make this possible? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bonathanjarrett Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 By any chance did you get a photo of conditions on Dragontail? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimbAndSki Posted May 23, 2012 Author Share Posted May 23, 2012 Here is a pic on dragontail. Several people were heading up triple couloirs and said it was in good condition, but I didn't get details. I think going up the ridge would be fun also. Right now I think you would be alternating back and forth between snow and rock, but most of the rock is probably pretty snow free, here is a pic on the first bump looking up from the top of the couloir. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bonathanjarrett Posted May 24, 2012 Share Posted May 24, 2012 Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Lewis Posted May 24, 2012 Share Posted May 24, 2012 Looks like a cool route. I might have to do it one of these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainguy01 Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 Hey ClimbAndSki, Check your PMs, I've got your crampon. Climbed the route on 5/25, in great condition. Only saw two other parties in the area. ~6" fresh/spindrift on top firm snow. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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