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[TR] Colchuck - North Buttress Couloir 5/20/2012


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Trip: Colchuck - North Buttress Couloir

 

Date: 5/20/2012

 

Trip Report:

First of all, I lost a crampon between the summit and the pass on the decent, if anyone finds it, please send me a private message. It must be at the bottom of a posthole because we retraced our steps to the summit and couldn’t find it so it might be a while before it melts out

 

Conditions last weekend were great for a climb of the North Buttress Couloir on Colchuck. Lots of fun high dagger climbing on 50-60' snow. The route was all snow(no real ice), and was pretty sustained angle all the way to the summit. The route protected well with a running belay using pickets or rock pro (we used mostly pickets but the other rope team used mostly rock pro).

 

From the notch of top of the couloir, you can do a climbing traverse right onto the NW face and stay on snow to within 20ft of the summit.

 

Couloir from the bottom

WP_000767.jpg

Part way up

306260_10150908855149059_621514058_9693447_576458884_n.jpg

485821_10150908855089059_621514058_9693446_1152320780_n.jpg

Almost at the summit

WP_000781.jpg

 

 

Gear Notes:

2 tools, pickets. No snowshoes needed

 

Approach Notes:

Road is open and snow free, the first couple miles are snow free, pretty continuous snow from Stuart Lake junction. Lake is melting out although we saw a few people ski across it.

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Trip: Colchuck - North Buttress Couloir

 

Date: 5/20/2012

 

Trip Report:

First of all, I lost a crampon between the summit and the pass on the decent, if anyone finds it, please send me a private message. It must be at the bottom of a posthole because we retraced our steps to the summit and couldn’t find it so it might be a while before it melts out

 

Conditions last weekend were great for a climb of the North Buttress Couloir on Colchuck. Lots of fun high dagger climbing on 50-60' snow. The route was all snow(no real ice), and was pretty sustained angle all the way to the summit. The route protected well with a running belay using pickets or rock pro (we used mostly pickets but the other rope team used mostly rock pro).

 

From the notch of top of the couloir, you can do a climbing traverse right onto the NW face and stay on snow to within 20ft of the summit.

 

Couloir from the bottom

WP_000767.jpg

Part way up

306260_10150908855149059_621514058_9693447_576458884_n.jpg

485821_10150908855089059_621514058_9693446_1152320780_n.jpg

Almost at the summit

WP_000781.jpg

 

 

Gear Notes:

2 tools, pickets. No snowshoes needed

 

Approach Notes:

Road is open and snow free, the first couple miles are snow free, pretty continuous snow from Stuart Lake junction. Lake is melting out although we saw a few people ski across it.

 

I've heard another fun go from the notch to the summit is to run the ridge - all on rock, 5.fun. Does the ridge proper look melted out now to make this possible?

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Here is a pic on dragontail. Several people were heading up triple couloirs and said it was in good condition, but I didn't get details.

 

WP_000744.jpg

 

I think going up the ridge would be fun also. Right now I think you would be alternating back and forth between snow and rock, but most of the rock is probably pretty snow free, here is a pic on the first bump looking up from the top of the couloir.

WP_000776.jpg

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