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Ed_Hobbick

Mt Fury North Buttress Climbing Stategy

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I'm planning to climb it this season and I'm wondering what is the best method to accomplish this.

 

How many partners would be best?

How many days to plan for.

How much should the backpacks weigh?

What approach would be the most probable.

How much rock protection?

What is a K.E.R.?

ect....

what length and size of rope?

 

Any thoughts on these things would be appreciated.

 

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As a warm up, the NR of Whatcom may be a good way to approach after taking the boat and hiking to Whatcom pass. That's the way we approached Fury and it is a fun way into the range. It is a bit longer than the Access Creek approach. But you can tick Challenger on the way also.

Edited by JasonG

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Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.

 

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I'm planning to climb it this season and I'm wondering what is the best method to accomplish this.

 

1. How many partners would be best?

How many days to plan for.

How much should the backpacks weigh?

What approach would be the most probable.

How much rock protection?

What is a K.E.R.?

ect....

what length and size of rope?

 

Any thoughts on these things would be appreciated.

Not a difficult route, just long access, and route finding issues.

1. 1

2: 5

3< 30lbs

4. Axes (access) Creek

5: 5 -7 pieces

6. rope is a non issue, single 50

Luna col- to Luna col in a (long) day. Good luck, its a classic.

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I'm planning to climb it this season and I'm wondering what is the best method to accomplish this.

 

How many partners would be best?

How many days to plan for.

How much should the backpacks weigh?

What approach would be the most probable.

How much rock protection?

What is a K.E.R.?

ect....

what length and size of rope?

 

Any thoughts on these things would be appreciated.

 

2, 3, 4, people, less is faster, more is safer

 

4 to 6 days

 

35 to 50 lbs

 

light alpine rack 1 set cams to #2, 3/4 set nuts

 

60m 9.2

 

forget the name of the creek, it's the one that comes up E side of Luna

 

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I think this is what you are looking for.

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It's Access creek. Nelson gives a description in his first edition selected, for Luna Peak.

 

I think Access has the least amount of bushwacking and shortest overall distance to get in to the North Pickets. Seem to remember you look for the talus on the south side of the valley as you go up. If you get buried in the brush you can't see where it ends on the south slope and you end up bushwack further than necessary.

 

And watch out for the wild hornets that nest on the ground. They don't like it when you accidentally step on their nest.

 

I had a 35 lbs pack with 8 days food/fuel and a skinny rap rope. I think if you shot for 40-45 lbs with climbing gear would be okay. It doesn't work in the brush but take an umbrella for the trail, works better than gore-tex. Since it takes so many days you can plan to have a rainy day on the trail and put your weather window on the climb.

 

1st day shoot for the cirque at the base of the E face of Luna (head of Access Creek)

 

2nd day I camped at the col on the south side of Luna but could have got over to the base of Fury on the 2nd day pretty easy. But Wayne is probably right, you want to go from Luna col to Luna col for the climb.

 

search the TR's there's at least one of the Fury N Buttress, it's even been skied.

 

I paid for a boat ride (30$?) to ease the first 5 miles of approach and on the way back hitched a ride on that section. Pretty easy in summer if someone is going that way, they always want to hear a climbing story.

 

There was cell reception from the summit of Luna.

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