Ed_Hobbick Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 I'm planning to climb it this season and I'm wondering what is the best method to accomplish this. How many partners would be best? How many days to plan for. How much should the backpacks weigh? What approach would be the most probable. How much rock protection? What is a K.E.R.? ect.... what length and size of rope? Any thoughts on these things would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 How much should the backpacks weigh? More than yours did in this SMALL PACK Trip Report Those are my thoughts on "these things." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonG Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 (edited) As a warm up, the NR of Whatcom may be a good way to approach after taking the boat and hiking to Whatcom pass. That's the way we approached Fury and it is a fun way into the range. It is a bit longer than the Access Creek approach. But you can tick Challenger on the way also. Edited May 22, 2012 by JasonG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Hobbick Posted May 22, 2012 Author Share Posted May 22, 2012 Have either of you climbed Fury? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Have either of you climbed Fury? He's got a great North Pickets TR posted on a climbing website called Cascade Climbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 I'm planning to climb it this season and I'm wondering what is the best method to accomplish this. 1. How many partners would be best? How many days to plan for. How much should the backpacks weigh? What approach would be the most probable. How much rock protection? What is a K.E.R.? ect.... what length and size of rope? Any thoughts on these things would be appreciated. Not a difficult route, just long access, and route finding issues. 1. 1 2: 5 3< 30lbs 4. Axes (access) Creek 5: 5 -7 pieces 6. rope is a non issue, single 50 Luna col- to Luna col in a (long) day. Good luck, its a classic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 I'm planning to climb it this season and I'm wondering what is the best method to accomplish this. How many partners would be best? How many days to plan for. How much should the backpacks weigh? What approach would be the most probable. How much rock protection? What is a K.E.R.? ect.... what length and size of rope? Any thoughts on these things would be appreciated. 2, 3, 4, people, less is faster, more is safer 4 to 6 days 35 to 50 lbs light alpine rack 1 set cams to #2, 3/4 set nuts 60m 9.2 forget the name of the creek, it's the one that comes up E side of Luna Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris54 Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 This thread isn't as cool as it once was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonG Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 I think this is what you are looking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 It's Access creek. Nelson gives a description in his first edition selected, for Luna Peak. I think Access has the least amount of bushwacking and shortest overall distance to get in to the North Pickets. Seem to remember you look for the talus on the south side of the valley as you go up. If you get buried in the brush you can't see where it ends on the south slope and you end up bushwack further than necessary. And watch out for the wild hornets that nest on the ground. They don't like it when you accidentally step on their nest. I had a 35 lbs pack with 8 days food/fuel and a skinny rap rope. I think if you shot for 40-45 lbs with climbing gear would be okay. It doesn't work in the brush but take an umbrella for the trail, works better than gore-tex. Since it takes so many days you can plan to have a rainy day on the trail and put your weather window on the climb. 1st day shoot for the cirque at the base of the E face of Luna (head of Access Creek) 2nd day I camped at the col on the south side of Luna but could have got over to the base of Fury on the 2nd day pretty easy. But Wayne is probably right, you want to go from Luna col to Luna col for the climb. search the TR's there's at least one of the Fury N Buttress, it's even been skied. I paid for a boat ride (30$?) to ease the first 5 miles of approach and on the way back hitched a ride on that section. Pretty easy in summer if someone is going that way, they always want to hear a climbing story. There was cell reception from the summit of Luna. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Hobbick Posted May 23, 2012 Author Share Posted May 23, 2012 Thanks Buckaroo Talk to you soon about iPrussik W. Ridge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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