Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
tanstaafl

[TR] Spain - La Luna de Miel 4/30/2012

Recommended Posts

Trip: Spain - La Luna de Miel

 

Date: 4/30/2012

 

Trip Report:

I have no time (read: I am too lazy) to write up a long trip report, but since there isn’t much on this site about Spain, I thought I’d post a few photos and a quick summary of a month in Spain.

 

La Pedriza: Got out with forrest_m and his delightful daughter Sofía to this granite area about an hour north of Madrid. Granite slab climbing ranging from 1 pitch to 200 m with approaches varying from 20 minutes to several hours. Mostly bolted, though word is there are some routes requiring gear. Sadly we only got two pitches in before it began to rain. As a consolation prize, we stopped in the village after the hike out for some beer and tapas and a visit to the local castle.

 

0_1_la_pedriza.jpg

 

Zafra: The grow shop was closed, but without the artificial aid of pot Rolf still managed to eat almost all of the tapa I accidentally ordered that consisted of nothing but a pound of cheese. Really, the name made it sound like it was going to be some sort of omelette-like thing.

 

003_grow_shop_zafra.jpg

 

Sevilla: No climbing, but we spotted an enormous housecat and a couple of imposing locals:

 

012_annoyed_cat_in_plaza_sevilla.jpg015_brotherhood.jpg

 

El Chorro: a tiny little village in the province of Málaga, El Chorro is home to El Caminito del Rey, subject of a YouTube video that made the rounds a couple of years ago. The Caminito is a three-foot-wide walkway built between 1900 and 1905 suspended 100 meters or so above the bottom of the narrow gorge. It’s quite deteriorated, and at this point it’s hard to see what’s holding much of it up except for habit. It’s a belay ledge for many of the climbs and walking the length of it and back is a highly entertaining rest day activity.

 

064_camino_del_rey.jpg

Caminito del Rey

 

103_crossing_3.jpg117_crossing_back_3.jpg

Traversing the Camino

 

126_baling_wire.jpg

A little baling wire reinforcement

 

The first day or two in El Chorro were hot, but later on the weather turned a little and I discovered some surprising similarities between limestone sport climbing in Spain and Cascades alpine:

 

129_surprising_similarities_bewteen_sport_and_alpine.jpg

 

Granada: again no climbing, but we did visit the Alhambra, which has some of the most impressive architecture I’ve ever seen.

 

197_can_t_get_enough_of_those_arches.jpg

Rolf: “The Spanish have an edifice complex.”

 

Granada is one of the last bastions of “a free tapa with every drink,” so I recommend you check it out before that changes.

222_how_I_saw_Rolf_when_we_weren_t_climbing.jpg

 

Calpe: Finally in the Costa Blanca, we spent a couple of days in British-retiree-infested Calpe climbing on the Peñon d’Ifach before renting a car and fleeing inland. No pics, sorry.

 

Finestrat: we spent a week in Finestrat, climbing at several areas. We started with a couple of days of single-pitch sport climbing in Sella. The longer routes on The Divino looked good but we never got around to them.

 

243_The_Divino.jpg

The Divino

 

We spent two days climbing on the Puig Campaña just outside Finestrat. First up was a five-pitch 6a called Diedro Magicos which involved “rescuing” some climbers who got hit by rockfall on the next route over (read: we let them rap on our ropes). Next day we got on a 12-pitch 5, Espolón Central. I cleverly dropped my belay device on p2 so we rocked the hip belays for the follower and I used biner brake rappels for the rest of the trip. I initially was going to rap on a Munter but Rolf wisely said, “No. Fuck that.”

 

256_Puig_Campa_a.jpg

Puig Campaña

263_following_p1_Diedro_Magicos.jpg

Following p2, Diedro Magicos

272_Rolf_on_p4.jpg

Rolf on p4, Diedro Magicos

276_almost_in_the_chopper.jpg

Helicopter rescue

284_helpful_spanish_belay_station.jpg

Helpful Spanish belay station, Espolón Central

 

Our last climb was Via Valencianos on the Ponoch, just outside the splendidly named village of Polop. It was a long, vegetated, wandering, scraggy climb redeemed by two really nice 6a pitches, both of which fell to me. Sorry Rolf.

 

295_VV_first_6a_pitch.jpg

First 6a pitch, Via Valencianos

 

Madrid: Our last night in Madrid forrest_m and family were extremely kind to let us crash at their apartment and act as our tour guides to the best tapas places. Another point in favor of Spain: you can take your six-year-old to the bars.

 

Is it time for another vacation yet?

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Single rack to 3.5, a bunch of draws and runners.

 

Approach Notes:

American Airlines. Business class would have been better.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks great, looking to head across the pond one of these days!

Thanks for the inspiration!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks; be warned however this is the only climbing trip I've ever been on when I came back fatter than I was when I left. I even put myself on a little wine diet for a couple of weeks afterwards. I'm over that now though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

nice report, kellie!

i like that the writing style seems to be following the snack-type style of the food you apparently consumed for the past month.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks like a great fun trip. If you want to slim down in Spain, you should go to Aragon... :) personal opinion

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After I saw your Jordan TR, we actually talked about going there until Rolf pointed out the wine would be abundant, good, and cheap in Spain, but not Jordan. Still, someday I'd like to go.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

can't agrue with that! those 2 wks in Jordan were like some AA desert retreat (climbing makes up for it though - mostly)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks like a great trip. I'm stoked foy you guys! Looks a little luxurious for Rolf though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It was a little hard on him eating Iberian cured ham and Manchego instead of canned tuna dumped in pasta, but he rallied.

We did at least stay in some fleabag hotels, although I recommend the place we stayed in Finestrat if you ever want to do some limestone climbing in the Costa Blanca:

 

http://www.casafigueretes.es/01_english.html

 

Your trip to Cham looked pretty swank too!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome looks like a nice trip. I got to get there one of these days. I remember wanting to go there and seeing there was a lot of climbing areas there. Now I would like to just get somewhere, where there is some climbing. Hopefully see you this summer.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×