Vernman23 Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 Trip: Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier Date: 5/14/2012 Trip Report: So quick trip report/ conditions update. My friend Tim made it up this weekend from Portland and our original plan was to climb the NW Face Ice route on Mount Stuart. All was looking good except the warm temps, and the road still being closed. We made the approach up the dry road in trail running shoes. Took the Stuart Lake trail to the cut off for mountaineers creek and humped the 2 miles or whatever it is up the creek. We set up camp in the last stand of tall trees and settled in for a warm night listening to stuff falling off of Stuart. Tim thinking he wasted a 5 hour drive from Portland and me feeling bad that I convinced him to come up for no reason but yet mildly proud that I found my way on the approach with no real route finding issues and no previous booter. We figured going to bed that if it didn't freeze where we were camped then it wasn't going to be a go for the NW face… Didn't freeze all night we leave camp at about 5:30 head up to the ice cliff and determine that we can pick a fairly unexposed path up the glacier. Roped up for the whole thing but only protected a few pitches. The first being a right to left traverse under the lip of the hanging glacier feet on rock/thin snow on rock tools in glacier. Good screws though. Second one was getting around the bergschrund. Had to go into the rock band and climb an M3ish pitch. Then the final pitch was getting out of the couloir and through the cornice, it was both of ours first time climbing 85-90 degree snow. Tim got good rock gear before it and led the snow like a champ Back to the tents pack up eat and death march it out on warm snow. Saw a ranger who couldn't give us a ride but could give our packs a ride down. Which was awesome! Thanks to her again!!!!!! A good trip ended up being worth the slog. The booter is in now and the road might be opened this weekend. Go and get it! Pics: Gear Notes: 2 pickets used then. 4 screws used them, half set of nuts and cams bd .5-2 used them. Two ice tools and crampons. 70m rope-too long 50m if your not pitching out is always better. 35 degree bag inside bivi sack was to warm. Cell phone at top to wish mom a happy mother’s day. Approach Notes: Booter is now in. Road snow free. Trail is getting less and less snow. 80 degree weather is sure helping! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 Nice. Any pics of the NE face or Upper North Ridge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh Lewis Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 Thanks for the heads up. Was considering this route tomorrow but disappointed that the road is still closed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vernman23 Posted May 14, 2012 Author Share Posted May 14, 2012 The road could be opened tomorrow. The FS never really seems in a hurry to open it anymore. Could be today tomorrow or next weekend none of which would surprise me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 Great climb - my favorite from last year. Thanks for the pics and conditions update! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattschweiker Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 Nice Work Vern! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JensHolsten Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 Nice Vern! Conditions are really interesting in the range this year...while the snowpack seems to be normal, the peaks themselves are very thin. Last year, we were climbing fat ice in early June. That doesn't seem like it's going to happen this year...maybe all the big storm systems that hit the range this winter were associated with high winds or something? The snow just blew around or maybe the storms lost their umph as they worked themselves over the Cascade crest? However! There are many fun routes to climb when the temps come down again. I highly, highly recommend The NE Cooler on McClellan Peak (jensholsten.blogspot.com for a trip report!) if you're looking for something new in the Stuart Range... John, I was under the NE face a couple of weeks ago...so shitty looking...seems like it could be a rock climb after this next week of blazing temps. What did you think Vern? North Ridge looks super fun...I was just contemplating an ascent of that gem considering the hot weather...there would be the classic mixed sections (slab and ridge before the Gendarme/climbing after the Gendarme to the summit, but a lot of the route could be done in rock shoes...I would bring red Trangos, strap on crampons,one axe, rock shoes, rope, and a rack... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 How do the ridge tops look now? Melting out and snow free? For example, how does the ridge run from the falst to true summit on Stuart look? Did you get a look at Argonaut, by any chance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vernman23 Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 I have to agree with jens. Looks like a rock climb. It's 90 in town (Wenatchee) the last few days. The Sun is very intense on the rock right now. The NE Face will probably be closer to a rock route than an ice route or mixed. Lots of sun. Way to go on McClellan Jens! Craig G has been talking to me about doing that it might be time for me to get off the couch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
123tom Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 Nice pics, looks awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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