Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
jordansahls

1st time to squamish, need suggestions

Recommended Posts

So I'm planning on getting up to Squamish here soon and I need some suggestions for routes. I'm looking for moderate climbs in the 5.7-9 range, multipitch that don't get overcrowded on the weekend (not Diedre). Any climbs somewhat off the beaten path that match my requirments? Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

St Vitus Dance, Snake, Cruel Shoes to Apron Strings (basically the first few pitches of the Grand Wall. Bananna Peel, although pretty easy, is fun, longish, and usually not crowded.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Squamish Buttress with Butt Face variation, South Arete, Sickle, Rambles, Skywalker(busy), One Scoop of Delicious Dimples, Sunshine Chimney, Cream of White Mice, Slot Machine, Old age->Sparkies->Wonderland, Papoose1, Europa(some hate it), Great Drain, Jungle Warfare.

 

Cruels shoes is old school 10d and apron strings is hard 10b

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Cruels shoes is old school 10d and apron strings is hard 10b

 

I did these so long ago I forgot I could climb that hard. I thought they were easier. I was also thinking of mercy me. Is that still 5.8?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

slot machine is nice crack, you can do more than just two pitches. And first two pitches of Birds of Prey are 5.8 also.

Edited by Drederek

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
And first two pitches of Birds of Prey are 5.8 also.

 

It's nice to pick up a couple of climbs next to each other. Also on the Sheriff's Badge is Jungle Warfare. It's rated 10a, but that's for a short (akward) section of off-width. Otherwise the route is in the .7 - .9 range.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
And first two pitches of Birds of Prey are 5.8 also.

 

It's nice to pick up a couple of climbs next to each other. Also on the Sheriff's Badge Squaw aka Slhany is Jungle Warfare. It's rated 10a, but that's for a short (akward) section of off-width. Otherwise the route is in the .7 - .9 range.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's not multipitch, but I've always thought that Garfield is THE best easy climb in or near Squamish, and there is never anyone there. It's at Comic Rocks, which is at the top of the hill past Furry Creek. It's 5.7, 40m, and not to be missed.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Re: Garfield

 

Try laughing crack in the bluffs, also of the same caliber.

 

Jungle warfare now has a couple bolted variations to that start.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

smoke bluff connection is the definition of ON the beaten path.

 

squamish is popular, climbs get traffic. get up early or stay out late to get on the popular classics and you will probably have a more productive and fun time than wandering around looking for obscure bushy mossy stuff. It's daylight out for like 14hrs now, so lots of time to avoid crowds.

 

... or you could climb North North Arete and Green Thumb ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

AMO Wall has 3-pitch bolted slab routes 5.7-5.10 and you are unlikely to see anyone there. It's between Shannon Falls and the Chief and you can find a photo topo at the Quickdraw Publications website.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, thanks for all the info.

 

I understand that such a prestine place as Squamish is going to have crowds, I expect it. I just don't want to end up on one of the conga lines.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It has been a few years since I climbed there, but the only route with serious lines was Diedre. Maybe that has changed, but there is a lot of very good rock there, hard to go wrong unless it is mossy and/or overgrown.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
but the only route with serious lines was Diedre. Maybe that has changed

 

yep, that has changed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Personally, I always really like the Octopus' Garden area of the Smoke Bluffs. Single-pitch stuff, but fun nonetheless.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×