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YocumRidge

best of cc.com [TR] Shuksan - Price Glacier via NE Chute+NE Rib linkup 8/3/2011

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I'm wondering about your partners thoughts, feelings, conclusions... Et cetera.

Edited by Ed_Hobbick

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The word "treat" certainly does not come to mind.

 

Hold on now, we don't even know what kind of food they dropped off. Crème Brulee and a spot of Brandy? :lmao:

 

 

 

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The word "treat" certainly does not come to mind.

 

:tup: Seriously, in the above TR, where's the "I'm so grateful for the park service's helpful attention, and humbled to see the effect of my choices reverberate through the community. I owe you one!"

 

The OP's first language is not English, so you may be jumping to conclusions about her using a word that could be an idiomatic term mistranslated or just misuse of a word in English.

 

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Thanks all for the input.

 

Having visited the NCNP over the last weekend, I stopped at the Glacier RS to thank the staff again and was told about the error in the start date in our permit. Due to adverse weather on Sun 07/31, we did not start the Nooksack approach until Monday 08/01 with the permit being issued for Sun-Tue (07/31-08/02).

 

However, we did deliberately drive from the Nooksack Cirque TH to the RS that Sunday (no cell reception) and requested the permit change to Mon-Wed (08/01 – 08/03) which was granted but NOT entered in the park’s computer system or our actual permit.

 

Did we know the heli was going to be sent out on Thursday morning (08/04) while we were on the way down from the summit pyramid to FC and 1 day past the “revised” return date ? NO.

Obviously, if we did, I would have found ways to prevent this one way or another.

 

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Humility:

 

"During a lull in the storm we had made an improbable lead into the ice gully. Fifteen leads of ice climbing in continual storm brought us to the summit ridge at dusk. Now all we had to do was find the col that gave us access to the valley. At mid afternoon we headed down a dip in the glacier. Just then we heard an unmistakable sound: a helicopter was circling in the valley below. They were looking for us! The noise grew faint and then went away. We crossed a shoulder and plunged into a snow basin; at last we could see where we were going. Suddenly the noise returned; the helicopter shot over the col. We rushed headlong down the slope, oblivious to the crevasses. The pilot spotted us and swung the machine over in our direction. "You guys ok?" came over the loud hailer. Apparently satisfied by our shouts and waves, the helicopter circled away. As abruptly as they had arrived they were gone.

The emotional impact was devastating. We realized that someone cared about us, that we were not alone. The last few days had been overwhelming. We had crossed the undefinable line. Now the tensions were released. As I walked toward the valley tears rolled down my face"

 

--Chris Jones in Ascent, writing about he and George Lowe's climb of the North Face of North Twin. One of the most poignant passages in mountaineering literature, IMO.

 

 

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Having run into on the evening on your way out from the Chimneys, the two of you were truly at the end of your tether, staggering a bit to be sure. Without that extra food from the helicopter, I wonder what state you would have been in.

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Nice climbing! Haters gonna hate, but I admire your tenacity and determination.

 

It sucks that there is a standing contradiction between the idea of "Freedom of the Hills" (not the book, the ethos) and "fill out this form so we know when to come and look for you". I also wonder what percentage of "rescues" initiated by the system in place are actually warranted as such. IMHO, your on your own, have the spouse call 911 24h after your supposed to be back.

 

Side note: make sure you write "p.m." instead of "a.m." if you're coming back at night. I had the wife in tears with that mistake once, but she stuck to the plan and didn't call us in late.

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Perhaps her partner Zloi will chime in on this. He has some information about this climb that I believe is worth some thought. I've exchanged a few emails with him related to this trip. He has some safety concerns, but hesitates to mention them on this forum.

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Perhaps her partner Zloi will chime in on this. He has some information about this climb that I believe is worth some thought. I've exchanged a few emails with him related to this trip. He has some safety concerns, but hesitates to mention them on this forum.

 

STFU

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He has some safety concerns, but hesitates to mention them on this forum.

 

There's a good reason for that Ed. The guy realizes this is not the place for such "concerns"...

 

Note: This may be the first time I've agreed with Kaskadskyjkozak.

 

stfu

 

d

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Perhaps her partner Zloi will chime in on this. He has some information about this climb that I believe is worth some thought. I've exchanged a few emails with him related to this trip. He has some safety concerns, but hesitates to mention them on this forum.

 

I'll fill in the blanks, then:

 

"blah, blah, blah, my partner sucked, crazy eastern european, too dangerous, bad decision making, no regard for life or limb, unwilling to turn back, summit fever, do or die, blah, blah."

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You say that as if being from Eastern Europe is both the reason and the excuse for these things. Is that what your saying?

Edited by Ed_Hobbick

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No. I'm making shit up for the fun of it. I don't know anything about either of these two.

 

I will say that eastern Europeans, and the Slovaks especially, are known for what some could argue to be "suicidal" ascents. I once asked Steve House to offer his ideas on the topic, specifically the difference between American and Eastern European climbing styles and attitudes, and his reply was that "Americans don't like to be uncomfortable."

 

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1) why isn't this a forum to discuss climbing safety? why isn't it relevant, all of a sudden?

 

2) not all eastern europeans are crazy/reckless/suicidal/etc. let's not get into nationalistic typing.

 

3)

eastern Europeans, and the Slovaks especially... Steve House...
i may be wrong and you did actually mean slovaks, but i'm pretty sure that most of people steve climbs with are from slovenia, not slovakia.

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If a person is reluctant to mention some safety concerns here, it may be that they are rightly aware of the importance of discussing them with their partner only. Not with a bunch of relative strangers that weren't even on the climb.

 

Nothing wrong at all with discussing general mountain safety imo.

 

d

 

 

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Okay, Choada, Doug, Kaskad, I think that you guys should go bite off a significant objective with her, she's often looking for new partners and when you get back we can talk. Your opinion at that point will carry much more weight.

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If a person is reluctant to mention some safety concerns here, it may be that they are rightly aware of the importance of discussing them with their partner only. Not with a bunch of relative strangers that weren't even on the climb.

 

Nothing wrong at all with discussing general mountain safety imo.

 

d

 

 

i agree - a discussion among the climbing parties is very important prior to posting, and definitely shows tact and consideration.

 

however, on this forum we rely on posters' objective, honest, and complete representation of the climb. this site isn't exactly a peer-reviewed publication - the trip reports aren't curated and data isn't verified. therefore, an accurate report is all we can hope for when reading.

 

to me, the trip reports serve three main purposes: 1) data on route (i wouldn't want to be mislead when following beta presented here), 2) information about potential climbing partners (i wouldn't want to be mislead about someone's ability if, say, zloi contacted me and asked me to go climbing), 3) and entertainment value and stoke for the lucky climbers who get to have the good times.

 

this particular report gives a lot of great info. it was made publically available by choice. ed has a question that doesn't seem all that unreasonable to me - most people chime in when their partners put up climbing trip reports, and "stfu" isn't really the most polite (tactful, considerate - see above) of responses.

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sp: I enjoy the TR's a lot. Yours included. My sense is that Zloi has good reasons and Ed posted out of turn. My response to him was inappropriate however.

 

Ed, please accept my apology for the impolite, tactless, inconsiderate response.

 

d

 

 

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Okay, Choada, Doug, Kaskad, I think that you guys should go bite off a significant objective with her, she's often looking for new partners and when you get back we can talk. Your opinion at that point will carry much more weight.

 

You climbed with her (N ridge of Baker) and wanted to climb with her again (Jeff).

 

Spionin climbed with her once or twice (Borah)... I saw the TRs.

 

I'm not sure what your point here is. If you think she is unsafe, don't climb with her again. If your point is to "warn" others, well people can make up their own minds on that, and having lots of TRs here is a good thing, not a bad one. If people think their TR's are just gonna draw a lot of shit, they will not post TRs. The side effect is at least two-fold: 1) a person's climbing record will not be visible, and 2) cc.com will have less resources for climbers to draw on.

 

 

 

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this particular report gives a lot of great info. it was made publically available by choice. ed has a question that doesn't seem all that unreasonable to me - most people chime in when their partners put up climbing trip reports, and "stfu" isn't really the most polite (tactful, considerate - see above) of responses.

 

Umm, Ed said he was corresponding by email with the other person involved and had some gossip about the climb. I took this as in very poor taste - trying to dig up dirt and then dangle it out here, when he was not even there. Furthermore, Ed has climbed with Mito - if he has some problem with her, bring it up with her - preferably in private. I stand by the STFU.

 

Edited by KaskadskyjKozak

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I agree Rad.

 

I have a Verizon cell but still there is no reception at the both trailheads.

 

 

 

Awesome climb, easily in the top ten of the most tenacious efforts on CC. Mito is a hardwoman!

 

The Verizon cell phone gets reception above about 8,000' on Shuksan. I always take mine in the mountains, they are so light now anyway. I called the rangers for a weather report from the summit of Luna and that's significantly more remote than Shuksan.

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Okay, Choada, Doug, Kaskad, I think that you guys should go bite off a significant objective with her, she's often looking for new partners and when you get back we can talk. Your opinion at that point will carry much more weight.

 

My opinion on whether or not a climbing partner should or should not be posting potentially confidential information prior to discussing it with his/her partner first, or, someone on the periphery, posting about an e mailing exchange about said information would be somehow affected by my climbing with mito?

 

Really.

 

 

 

 

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