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boadman

Top 33 pitches at Index, sub 5.12?

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So, I've got my 33rd birthday coming up in June and I'm contemplating trying to do a 33 (book) pitch birthday challenge at Index. The goal will be to lead all the pitches in a day, not necessarily to send them. Help me build my list:

 

1. Godzilla

2. City Park

3. Slow Children

4. Princely Ambitions

5. Dr. Sniff

6. Newest Industry

7. Julie's Roof

8. Thin Fingers

9. With Apologies to Walter B

10. Sagiscaryous (through upper roof)

11. Japanese Gardens (p1 to second anchor only, maybe p2 & 3 also)

12. Zoom

13. Cunning Stunt

14. Elvis Presley

15. Leave My face Alone

16. Kite Flying Blind

17. Climax Control

18-20. GM HOC

21. Wham

22. Little Jupiter (might be too hard)

23. Spooner (might be too hard)

24. Who Put the Purr in My Pussy

25. Toxic Shock

26. Even Steven

27-29. Rattle-tail

30. Senior Citizens In Space

31. Zipper

32. Strange Boar

33. ?? Favorites?

 

continously edited until the perfect 33 are listed. :-)

Edited by boadman

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You can be pretty subjective about pitch counts at index, since routes like "Full Sag" may only be 30m long, but they end at the 3rd anchor.

 

Here are 18 (or 9) more fun pitches 5.11 and under.

 

DHLA is 4-6

Lamplighter->Heaven's Gate is 3-5

GM->HOC is 1-4

Roger Corner->Breakfast is 1-3.

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GM HOC is definitely worthy, I'll add that. The first 3 pitches of DHLA might make it on the list, the rest I'm not super excited about.

Edited by boadman

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I find Tatoosh awkward and rather unpleasant.

 

I've actually never gotten around to doing Walter B or any of the Narrow Arrow pitches except messing around on the Direct on TR. They look really fun from the road though.

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The 2nd and 3rd pitches are 5.10. You can access them from Thin Fingers. Walter B has one bouldery .11 move but the crux is 5.10 fingers in a corner.

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Clay if your already at the utw.

Newest industry

Julies roof

Hairway to stephen

accidental discharge

iron horse to ring flake

model worker

Breakfast of champions

Marginal karma

Battered Sandwhich

 

Spooner is hard!

 

Good luck!!!

Edited by eric8

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I haven't done Newest Industry or Julie's roof. Newest Industry would be easy to access from Dr. Sniff, after which I could head over to Julie's roof too. That would be fun.

 

I don't really like any of the roger's corner things, they're all sort of mediocre for index, IMHO.

 

Accidental Discharge is fun, but I'm not sure Blue's cliff will be on the tour.

 

Iron Horse & Model Worker require a little too much mental energy for me for a big day like this. Otherwise, I'd put TPMV on the list two. Those 3 are definitely all time favorites.

 

Clay is too hard too, it would probably end the day.

Edited by boadman

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I was thinking you could hit AC on the way up to the UTW.

 

not doing iron horse and model worker for that reason makes perfect sense to me...

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Shirley (might be too mental)

p2 and/or p3 japanese gardens (either form the top of pitch one or from the sloe children ledge)

Klaus von Bulow and the algorithm of love

Death to Zeke

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For more ~10 stuff Gorrilla my Dreams (while you are up there doing julie's roof etc) and all the recently cleaned stuff at k cliff as you are hiking up to do toxic shock.

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Do pitches 2&3 of Jap gardens make your top 10 list?

 

I'm not that psyched on Shirley, how can 10' of actual climbing be so exhausting?

 

I've never even heard of Klaus von Bulow

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I've always wanted to try Natural Log Cabin, but the initial runout scares me off. and it's 11 I think.

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I lead that route precisely once, and am done with it. Incredible route, but not really worth it to me.

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If you're going to do Newest Industry, might as well do Beak Beak Beak and Lamar's Trust too since they're right next to it.

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p2 and p3 japanese gardens would both be classics if they started from the ground. Maybe not index top 10 but only because the competition is so stiff. I'm really surprised more people don't do p3 (index style fingers in a corner) off the slow children ledge. Maybe you have to hit it when it is clean for it to be good.

 

Klaus von Bulow isn't a mega classic but its a fun, not super hard pitch and starts from that same ledge.

 

 

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Lower town wall bias on that list. LTW areas makes up about 20% of the quality stone at index.

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The second pitch of Centerfold. 5 stars

 

sounds like you need to expand the list, say 50 Classics?

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Davis Holland Lovin Arms, every pitch is a classic. The only thing better at the LTW is Godzilla, Sloe Children, Thin Fingers, and maybe Zoom.

 

If you want to add easy free solo in there you have to include GNS, at least to the 2nd anchor.

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GM HOC is definitely worthy, I'll add that. The first 3 pitches of DHLA might make it on the list, the rest I'm not super excited about.

 

the upper 3 pitches are better than the 3rd pitch. a sustained hand fist crack to a stem chimney. An intricate and technical face/crack pitch that starts with a descending traverse. A dead vertical 5.9 face/crack pitch at the last with unusual rock features

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I too was surprised at the suggestion that the Lovin' Arms pitches are not worthy. The 2nd of them, in particular, I thought was fantastic.

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