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shaoleung

Icicle Crack Circuit

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I'm feeling the effects of too long bouldering in a gym and I need some ideas for a great crack circuit involving a dozen pitches of 5.8 and/or 5.9 so I can remember what it feels like to plunge hands and gear in deep. Something doable in a day. Multiple areas are fine.

 

Thanks!

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Outer Space and Orbit link up, Dogleg Crack, Meat Grinder, Classic Crack, the 5.8 at Barney's Rubble, Ski Tracks Crack, Pearly Gates (several cracks here),Poison Ivy Crack, Cocaine Crack, the crack on the Cube (Clamshell Cave), R & D route (mixed bag, but worthwhile), Bo Derick, Givler's Crack, Saber, the 5.8 on Jello Tower, Angel Crack, Canary (all on Castle Rock).

Edited by DPS

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Props if you can do all that in a day. But it's cool you posted pretty much all of my favourite crack climbs in Leavenworth (though you seemed to have missed the stuff at Pearly Gates).

 

Or just head to Squamish and lap the apron a few times. Diedre, Snake, Vector, Calculus Crack, St. Vitus' Dance, etc. (Oops, missed the title of this thread. Still a good option if you've got the time.)

Edited by skibum14

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As I was making mirepoix for rice pilaf I thought of a couple of other cracks and edited my list, including Pearly Gates. Good call, several good candidates on that wall. Also, my list includes some 5.7s and some 5.10s, a little outside the request range, but still very worthwhile cracks and most of the 5.10s can be toproped pretty reasonably.

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How 'bout Spaghetti Sauce and The Arch. Two good 5.8's right next to each other and right off the road.

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Glass Eye (Purina Crag area), The Bone (Castle), Old Grey Mare to Crack of Doom (Castle, used to be 5.8+), Sonic Boom-Flake Fest-April Mayhem (Trundle Dome), Peek-a-Boo Tower (Duty Dome Area)...

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Holy crap! I love a challenge... 8 stops, 23 climbs, 30 or so pitches, a couple thousand feet of plugging gear, one day, YEEHAW!

 

Stop 1: Castle Rock

Catapult 5.8

Canary 5.8

Jello Tower 5.8

Saber 5.6

Angel 5.10-

 

Stop 2: Trundle Dome/Surf City

Paydirt 5.7

Flake Fest 5.8+

April Mayhem 5.9

 

Stop 3: Purina Crags

Glass Eye 5.8

Poison Ivy Crack 5.9

 

Stop 4: Clamshell Cave

Clamshell Crack 5.7

The Cube 5.8

 

Stop 5: Barney’s Rubble

5.7

5.8

 

Stop 6: Alphabet Rock; Givler’s Dome

Dogleg Crack 5.8+

Meat Grinder 5.10a

Givler’s Crack 5.7

Bo Derek 5.10b

 

Stop 7: Icicle Buttress

Spaghetti Sauce 5.8

The Arch 5.8

Cocaine Crack 5.10a

R&D 5.6

 

Stop 8: 8-Mile Rock

Classic Crack 5.8

 

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Damnation - Castlerock - conspicuously absent from lists

 

Z-crack - might as well if you're doing Dogleg & Meat Grinder...

 

Forking Crack - Icicle Butt-rest - along with Spaghetti Sauce, The Arch, and Cocaine...

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The best crack climbing in the Icicle is in the Tumwater.

 

Ahh, true. A bit of a hike. But worth the effort.

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Ground hog Day in the Tumwater. Three pitches, sort of cracky, sort of slabby.

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I 2nd the Outer Space to Orbit linkup, crack heaven

I've done this link up a few times, and what I like about it is the remarkable variety of climbing offered in 12 -13 pitches. Some straight forward cracks, some dihedrals, some delicate face climbing, some big chicken head pulling. Also, I have climbed Outer Space 6 times and never climbed it exactly the same way. Several start variations, a couple of different cracks below the 5.9 hand traverse, a couple of options off Library Ledge.

Edited by DPS

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Holy crap! I love a challenge... 8 stops, 23 climbs, 30 or so pitches, a couple thousand feet of plugging gear, one day, YEEHAW!

 

Stop 1: Castle Rock

Catapult 5.8

Canary 5.8

Jello Tower 5.8

Saber 5.6

Angel 5.10-

 

Stop 2: Trundle Dome/Surf City

Paydirt 5.7

Flake Fest 5.8+

April Mayhem 5.9

 

Stop 3: Purina Crags

Glass Eye 5.8

Poison Ivy Crack 5.9

 

Stop 4: Clamshell Cave

Clamshell Crack 5.7

The Cube 5.8

 

Stop 5: Barney’s Rubble

5.7

5.8

 

Stop 6: Alphabet Rock; Givler’s Dome

Dogleg Crack 5.8+

Meat Grinder 5.10a

Givler’s Crack 5.7

Bo Derek 5.10b

 

Stop 7: Icicle Buttress

Spaghetti Sauce 5.8

The Arch 5.8

Cocaine Crack 5.10a

R&D 5.6

 

Stop 8: 8-Mile Rock

Classic Crack 5.8

 

Nice List.

Let us know how close you get to getting all this done in a day.

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Someone needs to devise a 5.10 version of the L-Town 15.

 

FWIW, the new list:

 

1. Tubbing in Der Ritterfhof

2. Rock and Rattle

3. Toothless

4. MF Direct

5. No Such Thing as a Free Lunge

6. Rainbow Connection

7. Hangdog

8. Daz Muzak

9. Mastadon Roof

10. Gilligan

11. Lazy Boy

12. Guillotine

13. Pumpline

14. Giant Steps

15. Air Roof

 

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Some tens for the new list:

 

Brass Balls

Bo Derek

Warrior

Swinging Affair

Z Crack

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Dang it Sol! Ya scared there as I first thought Air Roof had been down graded to 5.10 :) It is a relief that it is still considered strenious at least by modern standards.

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Why's Careno not on the 5.10 and under list? You could hammer out a nice variety of ~14 pitches with Careno Corners, Bale-Kramer, and the Regular route, good stuff from 5.7-10b even if the pitches are a little short. A few other good ones in the area too.

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Dang it Sol! Ya scared there as I first thought Air Roof had been down graded to 5.10 :) It is a relief that it is still considered strenious at least by modern standards.

 

What an awesome route! New anchors up there, never seen a soul on it. 11b ALL DAY!!

 

So inspiring to know Cal Folsom sent that beast in '78...

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Some tens for the new list:

 

Brass Balls

Bo Derek

Warrior

Swinging Affair

Z Crack

 

St.Vitus Dance/Return to the Womb

Old Grey Mare to Crack of Doom (easy to do in one pitch w/runners)

The Nose

MF Overhang

Satanic Verses

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Why is Saber on the list? I just did it again a couple weeks ago, and remember it being more of a face climb than crack climbing.

 

There is the initial wide crack/chimney, but you are correct, its a bit of a mixed bag rather than a meat and potatoes crack climb. Still, for the grade its a pretty great climb.

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Why's Careno not on the 5.10 and under list? You could hammer out a nice variety of ~14 pitches with Careno Corners, Bale-Kramer, and the Regular route, good stuff from 5.7-10b even if the pitches are a little short. A few other good ones in the area too.

 

Good call! Some really good suggestions rolling in.

Edited by DPS

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