markwebster Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 back before they invented 'the icicle', Castle Rock was all we had...and the Pinnacles. I'm still puzzled why my climbing friends always want to head up the icicle before we've climbed Castle out. I got spanked on Careno this last weekend because I hadn't put in my spring training on Castle. Castle has it all, from multipitch 5.3 up to yosemite style 5.9 offwidths and chimneys (Damnation). And when you get really good, meaning you've cruised all the Castle nines, you can start in on the 10's. Can you say "Brass Balls?" Merica on the top of pitch 3, regular route, Careno Crag: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telemarker Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 I think we should take Shaoleung's list and do a rando style race for climbers, complete with spandex pants and super lightweight carabiners. the winning pair gets a pint of Lokal Lager at the Icicle Brewery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skibum14 Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 ^^ I'm in no shape to do this right now, but damn that would be fun. I'm thinking it ought to be an annual cc.com event... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaoleung Posted May 2, 2012 Author Share Posted May 2, 2012 Why's Careno not on the 5.10 and under list? You could hammer out a nice variety of ~14 pitches with Careno Corners, Bale-Kramer, and the Regular route, good stuff from 5.7-10b even if the pitches are a little short. A few other good ones in the area too. Good call... This list may have to be a three day adventure... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaoleung Posted May 2, 2012 Author Share Posted May 2, 2012 I think we should take Shaoleung's list and do a rando style race for climbers, complete with spandex pants and super lightweight carabiners. the winning pair gets a pint of Lokal Lager at the Icicle Brewery. Sweet! I'll wear spandex for beer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaoleung Posted May 2, 2012 Author Share Posted May 2, 2012 back before they invented 'the icicle', Castle Rock was all we had...and the Pinnacles. I'm still puzzled why my climbing friends always want to head up the icicle before we've climbed Castle out. I got spanked on Careno this last weekend because I hadn't put in my spring training on Castle. Castle has it all, from multipitch 5.3 up to yosemite style 5.9 offwidths and chimneys (Damnation). And when you get really good, meaning you've cruised all the Castle nines, you can start in on the 10's. Can you say "Brass Balls?" I agree... but there's something to be said for spreading the love. There are some pretty distinct differences in rock and style between all these climbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 If you just want to maximize your mellow crack pitches, I'd go for the OS-Orbit linkup, followed by the backside descent off snow creek wall, which will bring you to the base of the pearly gates where you can do 6-10 more pitches in that range. That will let you end up somewhere in the 15-20 pitch range but not much more hiking than doing outer space alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 There are some pretty distinct differences in rock and style between all these climbs. The Icicle seems to offer more straight up crack and slab climbing while Castle Rock seems to be re-metamorphosed or something making for sometimes more thoughtful climbing and route finding. Also the grades at CR seem to be more old skool than the Icicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 Speaking of rastle cock, I didn't see The Bone on that list. But I didn't look very hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaoleung Posted May 3, 2012 Author Share Posted May 3, 2012 So I spent a half day on Castle today. Catapult, Angel, Damnation. Is that half way through the list? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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