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cowardly acts of theft at Frenchman Coulee


Charlie

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Pope, you say someone with strong environmental and traditional ethics would also have social ethics preventing them from undertaking these actions. I don't agree with you, but we aren't dealing with someone with traditional ethics. That's just the smokescreen that is being used to justify these actions.

IT IS A COMPLETE LACK OF SOCIAL SKILLS THAT IS THE UNDERLYING FACTOR BEHIND THIS ATROCITY! confused.gif" border="0

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a suggestion to those who replace these hangers: after torquing the nuts down, hammer any exposed bolt-threads to pulp, then bury the nuts in large blobs of expoxy. if the perp comes back for seconds, he/she will find the new hangers impossible to remove without destroying them. if he/she is collecting hangers for re-use, he/she will quickly give up. if he/she is "making a statement", he/she will be a whole lot easier to identify traveling with a crowbar than with a tiny wrench. 'luck, comrades...

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Charlie, I hear you're a fine feller but I never thought I'd see the day when the word "terrorism" was applied to a climbing area. rolleyes.gif" border="0 I think we all now know what that word really means, although I suppose some sport climbers might have been momentarily terrorized when they realized that they would have to climb "trad" or go home if the bolts were missing. And where were the people screaming "atrocity" when the place got grid-bolted? So some hangers are missing: It could be a trad dude makin' a statement or a cheap sport-climber looking for free gear to put on his next "project"...maybe even elsewhere at Vantage (hangers ain't necessarily cheap in quantity). Whatever. People have been stealing bolt hangers for years and it's a nuisance if you expect one to be there. It's a pretty low class thing to do. I suppose you could carry a few hangers and nuts in your pack just in case. Or reinstall them permanently such as in the manner described by "haireball". Or better yet, learn to climb clean. Although I personally wouldn't mind seeing Vantage returned to a more natural state, my concern is that some novice and/or sporty nudnikim might get hurt if expected hangers are missing in a crucial spot.

Oy! - Dwayner

P.S. I didn't do it.

P.P.S.S. I don't know who did it.

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I recieved a reply message from the individual who I thought might have been responsible for this act- He has denied doing it or even knowing that it had happened. I believe he did not do it. In fact, he probably put at least one of those rappel stations in to begin with. I apologize for any slandarous presumptions I may have made on this public forum. Also I wanted to thank everyone for sending the private messages and emails- it seems everyone does give a damn. So, who the hell did it? confused.gif" border="0

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quote:

Originally posted by pope:
You won't hear one of the "trad" climbers that you despise whimpering because somebody swiped his rack of hexes and his rugby shirt.

I'll bet you an oval biner there's some whiny trad climber out there because it seems like everytime I go climbing I find booty and plenty of it is trad booty. I've found almost a complete set of nuts including a nut tool this year. I also found a cam though I don't think I'll use it-- too smashed up. I'm amazed at all the new gear I find at the crags.

Whatever Pope. [Wazzup] Crack climbing, face climbing, it's all the same. It's all good.

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I replaced 3 anchors- right of party in your pants, bob's your uncle, and george and martha. The cost was about $20. (slings, hangers, and rings). I got several messages from people offering to send a check to help pay for materials. What i would suggest is that every time you come to vantage, bring some hangers, 3/8" nuts and washers, 9/16" wrench, and either slings and rings or chains. Vitually ever hanger was removed from the top of the cliff. Also, the bolts above tangled up in blue were broken off so they will have to be re-drilled. This is a tragedy but we're gonna have to replace what was stolen. So, let's all chip in. ($20 is a small price for all the fun I get from going there). Whoever did this is a classless thief and I hope they get what they deserve!

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I am going to have to say that Pope's initial assumption about reusing the hangers in another spot is not out of line or unthinkable. It is in fact entirely possible. Whatever though. I know of people that do such things.

I dont think it will effect my climbing experiences out there since I hardly ever visit.

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A person that I know has equipped a lot of routes at Skaha has had this same problem of hangar theft and route chopping. He tried the standard Petzl type glue ins but you can turn them out with a long bar. His expensive solution was a glue in "U" where the two legs of the "U" were glued into the rock (Check out the anchors on "Churning in the Wake" at Smith Rock). You can't turn this anchor and you have to hack saw the two legs to get it out of the rock.

His cheap solution was to purchase a box of stainless steel wedge anchors. He then boiled them in water till the oil was no longer coating the surface of the stainless steel. He then placed them into the rock, and used the heavy duty lock tight on the nut. When the route terrorist arrives with his wratchet wrench, the bolt will only spin, (the nut and shaft as one, spinning inside the cone) when he/she tries to remove the hangar. Of course you can hack saw this set up too but its going to be difficult (Knuckle busting hopefully).

I've climbed at Vantage and find it to be some of the best moderate sport climbing in the Northwest. It would be heroic for someone to step up and glue in the bolts or somehow remedy the situation.

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