billcoe Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 Ivan had told me that Sweet Fuckers fixed pins were gone. Yesterday I cleaned and retrobolted and once again, it's a Sweet Fucker although there are bolts not pitons. Tossed a couple extra in for good measure. Tiny to med cams, could 3/8" nuts, 4 draws and you're good. Tiny cams for the top crack would be real helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teh Phuzzy Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 Thanks. Thats one of the most fun routes out there. Pretty dry then eh? Might have to find a way to get out there tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 good to hear - fun route! seem to recall the first time i did it the only pro i used was the 2 pins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 good to hear - fun route! seem to recall the first time i did it the only pro i used was the 2 pins I recall watching that and hoping that a fall would not test the only thing between you and the ground. But you were styling. Now there is 4 bolts in that section, and you are one of the reasons why:-) Pro inflation:-) It goes at @ 5.7-5.8 until the upper part which takes tiny cams that are good. I saw the next party to climb it after you just traverse right to the visible Headwall anchors 3/4 of the way up ....and thus avoid the 5.10 finish AND also get a TR on The headwall. Teh, it's got to be dry as a babys behind......after it's been changed and powdered of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teh Phuzzy Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 I remember slipping a tiny nut, BD 5, in that top part. Never tested it with a fall, but it worked well enough for my follower to yank on as he was frenchin it. I've only done that top piece of the climb seeing as I went up The Headwall and then saw that and wanted to play on it real bad. Plus there is a nice surprise at the anchor on The Headwall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teh Phuzzy Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 (edited) no pins left since Bill Coe retrobolted it and I stuck Ian's cam in the top/fun part... making it draws only unless its 2trad4u Edited April 26, 2012 by Teh Phuzzy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 holy jesus, were those 1/2 inchers you sunk bill? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted April 25, 2012 Author Share Posted April 25, 2012 They are Ivan, stainless too. They'll be there for generations with any luck so that when Wolf comes along at 6'8" and 250-260, he can pitch at will with joy and glee. PS, I have a Leeper friend of a friend if you want to borrow it Adam. They are marginally effective for Metolius cams but will work. Get a hammer and a funkness, pull the triggers via the friend of a friend and WHAM!!! They look like this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teh Phuzzy Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 Thanks for the offer Bill, but I think that crack is a little small for those guys to fit in, could barely get my nut tool in there to jiggle the lobes directly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Ospray Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 Sweet Fucker... hmmm really you couldn't come up with a better name? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted April 26, 2012 Author Share Posted April 26, 2012 Sweet Fucker... hmmm really you couldn't come up with a better name? Apparently knot, but feel free to pitch some route names out there. The Mayor of Beacon came off of it, looked up and enthusiastically and loudly exclaimed: "SWEET FUCKER". Thus, named. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Ospray Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 Oh I don't care, and I more than understand why you named it that. I guess I will just call it something else if ever go out there with my 12yr old son and climb it together, since he always really likes to know the names. A fair amount of people would probably find the name rather distasteful is all I am saying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted April 26, 2012 Author Share Posted April 26, 2012 Oh I don't care, and I more than understand why you named it that. I guess I will just call it something else if ever go out there with my 12yr old son and climb it together, since he always really likes to know the names. A fair amount of people would probably find the name rather distasteful is all I am saying. I understand. The Mayor, aka Woo Li master named this route below as well. This is Jeff Thomas's picture of my son fighting the blackberries (ALL of the greenery in this picture is blackberries) following the first ascent. Route name: Child Abuse . LOL, Jim cracks me up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Ospray Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 Route name: Child Abuse Now thats a pretty good one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 A fair amount of people would probably find the name rather distasteful is all I am saying. a fair # of people in this world suck though, so why worry about them or their moniker-based hangups? a simple solution would be spelling - no reason it can't be "sweet fawker," eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 A fair amount of people would probably find the name rather distasteful is all I am saying. a fair # of people in this world suck though, so why worry about them or their moniker-based hangups? a simple solution would be spelling - no reason it can't be "sweet fawker," eh? Fah-Q, Dude! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 Fah-Q, Dude! "is that you down there, john wayne?!?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KirkW Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 "Is this me?" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 "Is this me?" "Remember, this was all just a bad dream, fat boy!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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