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Best off-sized cams


hamballs

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After a recent trip to Indian Creek a few of us got talking about what cam would be a good addition to our BD only racks. Especially in the larger sizes, there are times when neither a BD #2 or #3 is just right.

 

So what do people like for a off-sized cam (equivalent to a BD #1.5, 2.5, 3.5, etc.)?

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Omega link cams work great for doubling - you can add red + yellow and that will get you covered until a little over #2. If I need to double in #2-#4 range I just bring hexes

 

i'd have to respectfull disagree with this. i wouldn't use link cams in the desert (or anywhere) - regardless too expensive, prone to fix, and in bottomless cracks I can just see them walking/rotating up. And hexes? Mad respect to those that lead hard desert splitters with no constrictions on those, but no thank you. I'd rather use the smaller sized big-bros or large tri-cams if I was forced to use something besides a cam. Or...I'd find something else to climb.

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i like metolius for between 1+2 and .75 and 1. never had a problem between 2+3, but maybe that's cuz that size is such a solid jam, i don't really care. what climb are you talking about?

 

The climb that got us talking was Think Pink (Battle of the Bulge) although there were other times where we placed nearly tipped out 1s or 2s. For the creek, those placements were fine but having a 'tweener size would be nice in other situations.

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