B Deleted_Beck Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Howdy It's me again... Lookin' to do something interesting. I'd really like to get on some ice, but something otherwise exposed and committed and challenging will suffice. My thoughts: Devil's Kitchen Headwall - first variation (if you want a guaranteed failed summit bid, attempt this route with me) Wy'East - Face variation Reid - Long variation Nordwand - either gully What else is there? It's a small mountain... Thinking about Friday-ish... all weather dependent My internet access is limited at best, this week.. phone/text is mo' better - 503-41zero-4zero9zero -Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wetslide Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Good luck man. Just spent 2 days down there "trying" to climb (read as going to fancy restaurants, basking in the condo and snowshoeing (not climbing)). Not saying it wasn't fun but staring at my ice tools isn't my idea of a good time most days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B Deleted_Beck Posted April 3, 2012 Author Share Posted April 3, 2012 Good luck man. Just spent 2 days down there "trying" to climb (read as going to fancy restaurants, basking in the condo and snowshoeing (not climbing)). Not saying it wasn't fun but staring at my ice tools isn't my idea of a good time most days. What were you trying to climb? I keep hoping things will firm up or I'll find some ice somewhere... This'll be my fourth attempt in 3 weeks... met with blowing whiteout, high avalanche hazard, 3 feet soft rime to dry rock, and crotch deep powder everywhere, I haven't had much luck either.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wetslide Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Ya. We were just going to go do the South side route, with maybe a pearly gates variation for fun. I've already done it but the people I was with were newbs or very out of practice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhux Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 you have it all backwards.. instead of banging your head against shitty climbing conditions, just go skiing! High avy risk means stellar low angle skiing conditions-your only frustration will be not getting out enough, and realizing how much fun you could have been having Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B Deleted_Beck Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 you have it all backwards.. instead of banging your head against shitty climbing conditions, just go skiing! High avy risk means stellar low angle skiing conditions-your only frustration will be not getting out enough, and realizing how much fun you could have been having And with all the buy-one-get-one lift ticket coupons I have, that are probably expiring where they sit above my truck visor, I'm an idiot for not... but I just haven't gotten into the snowsports yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bd2510 Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 As for the Devil's Kitchen headwall, I climbed that no problem with my 57 year old dad. An yes it's steep, but no it's not that hard. A very interesting route, although very short. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B Deleted_Beck Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 As for the Devil's Kitchen headwall, I climbed that no problem with my 57 year old dad. An yes it's steep, but no it's not that hard. A very interesting route, although very short. It's not that we've any problem with the route- it's just that every time I go up with the intent of climbing it, something else kicks us off the mountain- partner bails/fails, avy hazard, blizard, crotch deep pow, etc. I'll probably just solo it.. What I'd really like to do is take a tent up, pitch next to Crater Rock at the back end of the Hogsback, and spend a 2, 3 days climbing all the south side routes. Rested, you could probably knock out 3 routes a day without straining.. would be hella. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B Deleted_Beck Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 So nobody wants to climb this weekend? Going up tomorrow night, partner or not... would really like to do Wy'East, but I'll probably chicken out if I'm solo- White River Glacier scares me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sswallen Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 I'm planning on heading up the south side tomorrow (friday) night. going to be an early start and a quick ski down as I have to be at Meadows at 7:30 for work. We'll see how far up I get, looking for a workout more than anything. -Seth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Water Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 (edited) probably be out w/ group of 3 to do leuths Fri nite/Sat AM. thinking outta the lot around 2ish, buffer time/dig a pit on the west side of zeee iLL saddle. full moon so should be plenty-o-light. ill say hi if i see you ben Edited April 6, 2012 by Water Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B Deleted_Beck Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 Well good... at least I know there'll be other guys up there. I'll probably give Wy'East V2 a shot- but if I chicken out, I'll shoot over and scamper up DKH instead. I'm gonna head out to work, and will go to the mountain from there... so if anybody wants to do one of the above routes, gimme call. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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