keenwesh Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 Anyone done it? looking for info. My dad wants to go into the waddington range late july and I need to know how hard I'm going to have to train him to be able to follow me up that beautiful piece of rock. Also, any other climbs people could recommend, nothing too severe but still thought provoking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted March 31, 2012 Author Share Posted March 31, 2012 here's a John Scurlock photo of the route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 You might check with Feck, I believe he's done the route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 Here's the trip report I wrote at the time. Thanks to you I fixed most of the photos so they show up in the TR! http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/382058#Post382058 Like I say in the TR, make sure you know the descent to the standard Waddington drop off if pick a landing at Combatant Col. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted March 31, 2012 Author Share Posted March 31, 2012 Thanks! we'll be flying in and out from a lower down point, have to approach and deproach the tiedemann glacier. Combatant col isn't a good place to be in a storm it looks like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Scurlock Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 Here's Steph Abegg's terrific image of Combatant from last Saturday, March 24: Combatant and here's the image I think you linked to previously, click 'original' below it to see a nice fat version: Skywalk The wind gods did not allow flight through Combatant Col on Saturday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted April 1, 2012 Author Share Posted April 1, 2012 that photo is incredible, thanks john! I must say whenever I'm looking into a climb I inevitably end up on your site. As for combatant col, it seems like a convenient launch point for many climbs. there isn't much weather protection though... Like if a stom moves in you don't want to stay there. Am I correct in this assumption? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Scurlock Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 Hey thanks. I have no personal experience on the ground there. I've talked a lot to Doug Clark, glaciologist at WWU, who has spent a lot of time there. He'd be the one to talk to, or perhaps others browsing through here. I can put you in touch with Doug if you want. I do know that it is a big place, and I've seen his photographs of avalanches coming down off W that didn't reach their camp. not that a big one couldn't... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 As for combatant col, it seems like a convenient launch point for many climbs. There isn't much weather protection though... Like if a storm moves in you don't want to stay there. Am I correct in this assumption? Not at all. Just make sure when you arrive to build good snow-walls around your tents. They don't have to be too high - you're trying to deflect the wind, not defend the Alamo! Hip high will keep the wind off the side-walls of the tent, and that's plenty. Better THICK than high - the sun will melt 'em out in a couple days, and thin walls fall down fast. I reckon the Col is one of the finest places on the planet to camp - superb views, not usually much company, incredible routes left and right, dead quiet 'cept when the wind gets up or the seracs fall down - magic! Enjoy your trip... P.S. The one major problem with the Col is that unless the weather is solidly good, you can't fly out, so be prepared to drag all your kit over to the western shoulder of Hickson - there are reasonable landing sites about every 1000 feet all the way down that, right to the Scimitar. In really shitty weather, you'd have to go to the flats of the Scimitar, but you might just get delayed in that case, cuz it's not totally trivial to find your way down, especially in poor visibility. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted April 3, 2012 Share Posted April 3, 2012 Here's a picture of the descent route we took. The Tiedemann glacier at Combatant Col was broken up. We did one rap on our descent. I'm not sure what the ascent would be like via the route I marked. Nasty I bet. [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9FCsY-bSqBo/T3pnmrBwNPI/AAAAAAAABwE/NcWdRCeoHDo/s640/M2-Waddington-pictures-054.png[/img] If it isn't broken at the top stay on the glacier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted April 4, 2012 Author Share Posted April 4, 2012 fantastic info guys! any chance of getting a conditions report on the tiedemann glacier in mid july or will I have to resort to the old fashioned method of waiting until I'm in there and see for myself? I'd like to get the drop off at combatant col but alas I'm not in charge of that and we have to accomodate everyone in the group, so if I really want to do skywalk I'll have to go up that thing. leading up seracs with a full pack might shift the risk/reward balance unfavorably... also if anyone knows potential FA's that are in the easy 5.10 and under category and are feeling generous please send me a PM. Doing something like that with my pops would really be special. A full TR on here would definitely be in order. Of course I could also just go back to the archaic method of seeing for myself but I'm lazy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 also if anyone knows potential FA's that are in the easy 5.10 and under category and are feeling generous please send me a PM. Doing something like that with my pops would really be special. A full TR on here would definitely be in order. Of course I could also just go back to the archaic method of seeing for myself but I'm lazy. Is that all? Sure you don't want a steak and a blowjob as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 also if anyone knows potential FA's that are in the easy 5.10 and under category and are feeling generous please send me a PM. Doing something like that with my pops would really be special. A full TR on here would definitely be in order. Of course I could also just go back to the archaic method of seeing for myself but I'm lazy. Is that all? Sure you don't want a steak and a blowjob as well? I wouldn't refuse that... The college cafeteria doesn't give us steak too often, and when they do it's dry and overcooked. What sorority did those nice girls you knew in college belong to off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 oh, and surprisingly enough I have yet to receive a message from anyone. Maybe the PM's are broken again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigtree Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 I'm planning to be in there for 2 weeks this July with a small group of guys. If the main summit goes quickly for us we'll likely head across the Tiedeman from Rainy Knob and start knocking off other objectives like Combatant. Will endeavor to post something upon return. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 What sorority did those nice girls you knew in college belong to off? Phi Biteah Dicka, but I'd recommend caution. Plus, as you might suspect, they're all your parent's age now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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