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Darrington rock climbing season

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Hey folks. How's the climbing on Exfo dome, Blueberry hill, Three oclock, and Green Giant in early May? Also, I've noticed a bunch of TR's for Slab Daddy in July. Would 75 degrees in Darrington in July make Slab Daddy uncomfortable?

 

Looking for beta since I've NEVER been to Darrington and I am totally psyched to make it happen this year.

 

Thanks,

Joe

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Last I heard the road (2060) to Exfo, green giant and three o'clock is in bad shape and there will be some substantial increase in the amount of approach.

75 degrees on nice white granite slabs can be an oven but I like it!

 

 

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75 degrees is warm but not overly so... Slab Daddy goes into shade about 4:30pm and the rest of the afternoon may even become cool... it can be nice to have at least a pile top for the belayer during the late afternoons.

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Joe, I visited Darrington for the first time last summer, you will love it!! Beautiful rock in a dramatic setting cannot be beat.

The approach to the most popular crag 3 o'clock will be rough for the time being.

Have you been to Static Point, it's a little closer and similar style although the approach is often a PITA if the road is blocked as it is during specific days.

Good Luck!

 

3 O'Clock

third.jpg

 

Blueberry Hill

exfol.jpg

 

The approach crux to Static point.

olney.jpg]

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It is a dice roll in terms of weather in May, if it is dry it is good, if it is raining it ain't :)

 

I am anticipating the road will be totally f-ed into Clear Creek the entire summer from what I understand.

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static point rocks, as does darrington.

 

The hike into static point takes maybe a hour and a half if the road isn't gated, with the washout on the darrington road I think the approach there will be longer then that.

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The direction each slab faces makes a huge difference on how it heats up. On any day headed above 75, personally I'd steer away from anything facing SE or south (including Slab Daddy or Dreamer). Been cooked on both and lost toenails to prove it.

 

Exfo faces west, so is nice until mid-day on hot-ish days. North aspect of 3OC Rock (Silent Running or Total Soul) is a decent bet up to the low 80's maybe?

 

Cloudy days can be really nice, even if it sprinkles a bit.

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Good advice there, Curt. On those hot days you can climb the west side of Exfoliation Dome and do much of the climbing in the shade if you leave the car by 7:00 a.m.

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I climbed the blueberry route of Exfo Dome on the day after the hottest day ever recorded in Seattle (sometime in late July of 2009). My partner and I brought along 4 liters of water each, a huge bottle of sunscreen, and started up the granite sidewalk a bit after dawn. Looking back it was a pretty narrow margin of safety, given how delirious we were when we got back to the car. The sun didn't hit us until on pitch 5 or so (about 10 AM), but the rappel down Westward Ho was miserable.

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On those super hot days, the Hanna/Packard Tower Route on Big Four is a good choice. It faces North and gets little or no sun even in the middle of the Summer (the first 5 or 6 pitches are a nice crag climb, a little scary in spots, on conglomerate/cobbles that are rather unique).

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On those super hot days, the Hanna/Packard Tower Route on Big Four is a good choice. It faces North and gets little or no sun even in the middle of the Summer (the first 5 or 6 pitches are a nice crag climb, a little scary in spots, on conglomerate/cobbles that are rather unique).

 

Bring your big nutsack for pitch 3

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I really appreciate all of the help. I am not familiar with Darrington and I really want to give it a go. I would rather be up there in earlier summer like June or July instead of September due to conflicting plans.

 

Thanks

Joe

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