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sapphari

Partner for guided climb of Shuksan Price Glacier

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Hello -

 

I'm looking for a partner to join a guide and myself on an attempt of Shuksan's Price Glacier. Alpine Select calls this famous route 'perhaps the most classic ice face in the Cascades' and 'a wonderful adventure on a big face'. It is also one of the 50 Classic Climbs of N. America. I'm hoping our decent route will be via the White Salmon Glacier. The route involves steep ice, potentially some 5th class rock and two bivies on the mountain. Route finding on the Price Glacier can be very challenging as seracs and burgschrunds can prove significant objective hazard, well justifying a guide.

 

This 3-day climb is scheduled for June 19th-21st, when the route is expected to be in it's best shape. Guiding costs are $800 and include food on the mountain.

 

Below are some teasers. Please PM me if you are interested in more info.

 

Happy climbing,

Josh

 

A couple of great trip reports:

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=974065

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=901411

 

Good collection of low-res photos:

http://www.pbase.com/nolock/shuksan&page=1

 

Price Glacier route. This was taken in August; in June it will be less broken up:

106239003_large_6cbf26.jpg

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One of the most classic climbs in the range! Including making the 50 classics of North America.

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Tis true, Jens. I'm excedingly excited! This trip was an xmas gift from my girlfriend. Needless to say, she's a keeper!

 

Sorry about the huge picture folks... nice to have the resolution, but I know it is equally a pain.

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Have fun. In mid August it was full on. Mid June should be more reasonable.

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In mid August it was full on. Mid June should be more reasonable.

 

What Dan said.

 

This is how convoluted it was for us last August. We ended up finishing it up via the NE Rib/Hanging gl.:

6164093057_3da9571a7f_b.jpg

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Just curious, who is your guide? Not that I want to go back and climb it again mind you, once was enough.

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Just curious, who is your guide? Not that I want to go back and climb it again mind you, once was enough.

 

DPS, if you don't mind, why do you say that? It looks great, but any tip from your own experience?

Thanks,

GA

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Don't get me wrong, the Price Glacier is perhaps the most significant summer alpine ice route I've done in the Cascades. We experienced significant rock and ice fall that was too close for comfort. I expect earlier in the season it might have less objective hazards in addition to being technically easier.

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Given the objective hazard, I didn't know this route was guided. Interesting. The typical June weather around here is pretty gloomy, so I hope you don't have to go on those dates, regardless of weather. With a route like that, flexibility will be key in nailing the right conditions.

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Thanks for the additional beta, Yocum.

 

DPS - the guiding company is a US-based international guiding company. The actual guide has multiple first ascents in the Cascades to his name, as well as in the Waddingtons, Patagonia and Alaska. Of course, he is also extensively certified. I would be happy to share more specific details to those who are interested in joining me this June. ;)

 

In regard to rock and icefall - yes this is a potential hazard. A cold snap (more likely in June than later in the season) would drastically reduce these hazards. I agree that this route should be less technical in June than it would be later in the season when the glacier is more broken up.

 

In regard to flexibility - As with any serious climb, safety and respect of the mountain (and particular route) are of upmost importance. As such, the guide and I are not locked into this particular route on those particular days. While it'd be great if everything if everything works out, if conditions are not favorable, we will climb elsewhere.

 

All this chitter-chatter is getting me excited!

 

 

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I don't know a ton of guides that are that highly qualified and also willing to allow their schedule to be left relatively open to last minute scheduling changes due to weather. That usually doesn't lend itself well to guaranteeing work and putting food on the table or gas in the tank.

 

Congrats on finding one, best of luck in finding a partner as well.

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The climbing dates are set and likely not flexible. What we can change is our route. Price Glacier is the preference, but we can have a more reliable backup. The guide gets paid either way ;)

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Sapphari,

Thanks for the nice pic! I'll use that for my July 4th attempt. BTW, looking for a 3rd member of the team...Please let me know how the route is after your climb.

 

Matt

absinthe52@hotmail.com

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Hey Matt - If you email me on or after June 21st, I'd be happy to let you know how it goes for us (just not sure if I'll remember to do so without the reminder!).

 

Good luck!

Josh

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The typical June weather around here is pretty gloomy, so I hope you don't have to go on those dates, regardless of weather.

Actually, we're having some of the best spring weather we've had in quite a few years. Don't see any reason it shouldn't continue into early summer.

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