Jump to content

Partner for guided climb of Shuksan Price Glacier


sapphari

Recommended Posts

Hello -

 

I'm looking for a partner to join a guide and myself on an attempt of Shuksan's Price Glacier. Alpine Select calls this famous route 'perhaps the most classic ice face in the Cascades' and 'a wonderful adventure on a big face'. It is also one of the 50 Classic Climbs of N. America. I'm hoping our decent route will be via the White Salmon Glacier. The route involves steep ice, potentially some 5th class rock and two bivies on the mountain. Route finding on the Price Glacier can be very challenging as seracs and burgschrunds can prove significant objective hazard, well justifying a guide.

 

This 3-day climb is scheduled for June 19th-21st, when the route is expected to be in it's best shape. Guiding costs are $800 and include food on the mountain.

 

Below are some teasers. Please PM me if you are interested in more info.

 

Happy climbing,

Josh

 

A couple of great trip reports:

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=974065

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=901411

 

Good collection of low-res photos:

http://www.pbase.com/nolock/shuksan&page=1

 

Price Glacier route. This was taken in August; in June it will be less broken up:

106239003_large_6cbf26.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 18
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Don't get me wrong, the Price Glacier is perhaps the most significant summer alpine ice route I've done in the Cascades. We experienced significant rock and ice fall that was too close for comfort. I expect earlier in the season it might have less objective hazards in addition to being technically easier.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Given the objective hazard, I didn't know this route was guided. Interesting. The typical June weather around here is pretty gloomy, so I hope you don't have to go on those dates, regardless of weather. With a route like that, flexibility will be key in nailing the right conditions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the additional beta, Yocum.

 

DPS - the guiding company is a US-based international guiding company. The actual guide has multiple first ascents in the Cascades to his name, as well as in the Waddingtons, Patagonia and Alaska. Of course, he is also extensively certified. I would be happy to share more specific details to those who are interested in joining me this June. ;)

 

In regard to rock and icefall - yes this is a potential hazard. A cold snap (more likely in June than later in the season) would drastically reduce these hazards. I agree that this route should be less technical in June than it would be later in the season when the glacier is more broken up.

 

In regard to flexibility - As with any serious climb, safety and respect of the mountain (and particular route) are of upmost importance. As such, the guide and I are not locked into this particular route on those particular days. While it'd be great if everything if everything works out, if conditions are not favorable, we will climb elsewhere.

 

All this chitter-chatter is getting me excited!

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know a ton of guides that are that highly qualified and also willing to allow their schedule to be left relatively open to last minute scheduling changes due to weather. That usually doesn't lend itself well to guaranteeing work and putting food on the table or gas in the tank.

 

Congrats on finding one, best of luck in finding a partner as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
The typical June weather around here is pretty gloomy, so I hope you don't have to go on those dates, regardless of weather.

Actually, we're having some of the best spring weather we've had in quite a few years. Don't see any reason it shouldn't continue into early summer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...