telemarker Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Wonder if we'll ever see this again. TR from Pete H. and Dan C. 2007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 curt told me about when he climbed it a couple weeks later. sounded like a really fun adventure. I'm totally speaking hypothetically now, because I'll be in Bozeman for at least the next 3 winters, but if there isn't much (or any) ice up there how frowned upon would drytooling up the lesser done routes on that part of the wall? Thinking white slabs and other stuff further right. that granite could take a couple of ascents a year without too much damage from tools and crampons I think. They wouldn't get much traffic besides a couple people like me scratching my way up. I wouldn't post a TR if I did, just asking on here (probably a dumb idea) to see if anyone would be pissed off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 being somewhat south facing doesn't help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 so no reply mean go for it? How's the wall looking right now? I'll be in washington for most of next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle_Flick Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Last I looked the ice never formed up on SCW this winter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 To answer what I think you are asking, yeah, nobody will be happy seeing crampon marks and enhanced holds on Outter Space, but if the ice forms up you shouldn't be damaging the rock anyway. Perhaps I lack imagination or fail to climb M at any reasonable level, but the smooth slabs and hand side cracks don't really invite full on dry too fests. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 white slabs man, there are dirt filled cracks for a few pitches that might get a little ice with some freeze thaw action. I'm sure some stuff like that route man yoga could be done, steep runout scary slabs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 some of those routes could look kinda like this in the right conditions... http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/man_yoga_in_the_canadian_rockies/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 except that stanley headwall is not granite which lacks the type of holds that picks like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JensHolsten Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 I patiently await the day until SCW forms fat again...that would be really, really cool. You can definetely scratch up routes on the right. With a close eye on conditions and a creative headspace, one can climb cool mixed routes in both the Tumwater and Icicle that folks never talk about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Even regardless of novelty factor, that is still one of the funnest ice routes I've done. Definitly needs a few weeks of consistent cold with a pre-existing snow pack to form up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 That is the second best ice route in WA state after Drury. The consensus is it forms every 20 years, maybe 15 or 10 if you're really lucky, so it will be 2017 minimum. I'm not sure you would want to be dry tooling on Snow Creek wall. I wouldn't mind it and would do it if it was acceptable but it's probably not. Who knows, maybe on some of the less traveled routes. I really think WA needs some more dry tool routes being the ice is so sparse. It would be a good way to train. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montypiton Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 Besides the White Slabs - White Fright line that came in so well that year, I was aware of two parties that also climbed the North Chimney - that appeared to have some mixed passages, but enough ice to invite attention. I doubt North Chimney gets enough traffic that anyone would notice if it got dry-tooled now and then. Those two teams that climbed it mixed that winter were the only two ascents I've heard talked about... not to say there haven't been climbs made, but folks don't talk it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 I patiently await the day until SCW forms fat again...that would be really, really cool. You can definetely scratch up routes on the right. With a close eye on conditions and a creative headspace, one can climb cool mixed routes in both the Tumwater and Icicle that folks never talk about. my lips are sealed. if you want to get out mixed groveling send me a PM. secrecy is key bro. don't want to offend any purists... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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