Dane Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Living in the PNW it is easy to forget just how close and how good world class ice climbing is. A twelve hour drive from Seattle will get you to the Banff/Lake Louise area and the potpourri of climbs available there with in a few minutes walk. The few minutes walk has become even more important to me recently having barely been able to get out of bed for the last 4 months let alone walk. That, thankfully has changed again. I originally had hoped to just be able to do the approaches with my friends and may be take some pictures on this trip. Climbing I thought might be too much to ask. Surprisingly, with some very kind encouragement and some tough love from Rafal and Nastia, the climbing came back easily with good friends there to support me. Of dozens of trips, this one was the "perfect" trip. I laughed every day and in the end came home bone tired. Ever grateful for being able to just get out again. I hope Rafal's and Nastia's pictures from our 5 days of climbing encourage others to have their own adventures! The professional photos and any serious climbing were by Rafal. http://www.rafalandronowski.com/ Nastia and I both wore yellow jackets...if you can't tell and actually care, just assume it is her leading in yellow. Professors Falls Louise Falls The kind Dr. giving me my first lesson of the trip My first 5 lead. Rafal's as well. This was Nastia's turn. Nicely done too! Cascade Falls Carlsberg Marble Canyon Rafal's kind way of remiding me you have to "pay to play" with the big boys. Snivelling Gully Weeping Wall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skatan Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Because it's the shit! Good to run into you up there it's awesome that your back at it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhux Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Sick pictures Dane, good to see you're out and about again! Which climb is the 6th from the bottom, the steep one with a tr on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EastCoastBastard Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 that's the Tokkum Pole, in Marble Canyon, just across the road from Haffner Creek. WI5+. Cool climb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Nice job team! I know I will keep going back for more. The problem is that I have to go back to the US. Good to see some better tools in that gals hands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 good to see you're out and about again! Not only Dane is getting "out and about" but he was smoking my ass while climbing and on the approaches. Ha, and here I thought I was not in the terribly sucky shape after all . "I am only 1/3 of a man now that can walk for 1/2 mile"! After 4 months of excruciating chemo with still lingering side effects and 50 lbs lighter, here is the trimmed Dane Burns on Professors last week: Soloing Cascade falls while I was pathetically lagging behind the boys: Dane on the Weeping Wall: The best chunk of ice I ever climbed: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Props to Raf (Rafal A) for the pro quality pics and good times: Raf's photo rig: Side notes: Canadian ravens at the Weeping wall are weird. Not only they know how to unzip the Cilogear packs, they find and feed on cigarettes carried inside them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 Oh man, she fell for the old "raven unziped your pack" story. We were looking for the russian vodka and cuban cigars. Those emrican tourists are so gulliable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Good to see some better tools in that gals hands. Yes, Wayne, I very well remember your polite sigh when I informed you that I am going to climb this one with Aztarexes : Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RafalA Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Looks like good times on the Parkway!! Nice TR. 'Twas good to finally meet you in person, Dane, and a pleasure to be introduced to the good Dr. N. A few more photos on my blog: http://blog.rafalandronowski.com/?p=2911 One question, though: what the hell is going on with the rope in this picture?? http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7070/6934567087_263b58bd1d_b.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 One question, though: what the hell is going on with the rope in this picture?? http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7070/6934567087_263b58bd1d_b.jpg Raf, that was one of the Dane's simul climbing "shortcuts" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 Hey! No one died...yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RafalA Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Well, you're both posting so I guess it worked! :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 technical explanation? Not UIAA approved simul climbing..to a good sized ledge with little chance of falling off. One screw used as an "anchor"...single twin rope clove hitched on a third biner attached to a 2 biner Mammut screamer. That was to keep half of team on the wall so pictures and a pee could be accomplished in safely. Obviously great picture, not sure how the pee went down Climbing twins went through single screw to help make a catch in case I tripped over my boot laces (always a distinct possibility I try to account for). Fall factor pretty high on a 60m pitch with 3 screws including this one. Rope laying on spin handle of screw. In other words FUBAR....lesson to be learned? Don't try this at home. Make sure you don't trip on shoe laces using this specific technique. Things will likely get problematic rather quickly in real world load testing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RafalA Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Ok, so it is a clove hitch. Was wondering what that's doing on a screw :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pu Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Good Trip Dane and Nastia. I guess i'm a bit relieved that you didn't "take the bait" in the hostel parking lot. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Where did you guys end up going on Sat? We were wondering what happened since we did not see you on the upper weeping wall. It was a little chilly (-18oC) in Rampart that night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trainwreck Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Ted is a wily creature. You're better to leave an offering for him then allowing him to rummage through your stuff. Alternately, gear up at the car and carry everything you need in a bullet pack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maine-iac Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 AWESOME! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 Nastia leading the crux and final pitch of Cascade.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pindude Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Absolutely beautiful, Dane. Great to see you back at it and on top of it. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Side notes: Canadian ravens at the Weeping wall are weird. Not only they know how to unzip the Cilogear packs, they find and feed on cigarettes carried inside them. Years ago a friend and I were climbing up above Bow Lake on a bitterly cold day. Mid climb and I look down and see a Raven pulling drawcords on my pack. I hung off a tool and tried tossing some dinner plates of ice down at him to no avail. When we got back down he had half pulled out a jacket and had open and strewn a package of food everywhere. Smart little bastards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Corvids are considered the smartest birds, at least as smart as cats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YocumRidge Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Dan, I was mostly puzzled with their peculiar diet choice, a nicotine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Dan, I was mostly puzzled with their peculiar diet choice, a nicotine? Corvids like to be known as the 'bad boys' of the bird world so they steal cigarettes to smoke behind the high school. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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