Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Buckshot

Tying loops in glacier ropes.

Recommended Posts

I keep seeing stuff online about tying loops between yourself and your partner while traveling on glaciers. I think the idea is that the knots slow the rope passing over the crevasse lip then the victim can use them to aid climb out of the crevasse. Is this a good technique?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It works often, but not necessarily all the time depending on snow surface conditions.

 

Be sure to practice crevasse rescue with the butterfly knots in place. The 6:1 drop loop (a.k.a. Canadian Drop Loop) is often the easiest rescue method.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if anyone doesn't get it, if you tie knots in your rope, you had better have enough rope in the rescue coils to be able to setup the rescue. You need at a minimum, twice the amount of rope coiled over the shoulder as the length between the two climbers to build a standard 3:1 after dropping free in down. (for team of two which this is usually used for) More in rescue coils than twice between climbers is preferred though so you can build standard 6:1 or canadian drop c 6:1.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Having enough rope left over to effect a rescue is key. In my case I was carrying the other rope which I dropped in over the padded the lip. The rope with the knots was stuck so badly it had to be cut.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×