BootsandPants Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 Trip: Chair Peak - North Face Date: 1/28/2012 Trip Report: Niki and Monica had taken a bit of a break from climbing for the past few months after climbing in Chamonix in September, but they really wanted to get back out and climb something to get back into the swing of things. Much talk over beer the previous weekend had us looking at Chair Peak with its various alpine challenges. Also, none of us had climbed it before...adventure time! With the weather looking halfway OK, we set out on a brisk Saturday morning from the Alpental parking lot around 745. Accidentally following the wrong set of tracks led us to a camp and a rather surprised couple who had spent the previous night somewhere off the beaten path. Sorry guys... The morning was off to a wonderful start! [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--rSwB29YFEc/TyfsQyQOuMI/AAAAAAAABII/iC6t47hTYrE/s720/DSC00382.JPG[/img] Looking for radio signals...or aliens We reached the notch by the north east buttress around 1000 and noted that there were two other teams going for the north face before us. We geared up in no real hurry to let them climb high on the route, ate some pizza, joked with some skiers, and looked at the NEB. It was definitely in and the waterfall bit near the top looked pretty fat. [img:center]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YgDLWuuXd3Q/TyfsQHg_M5I/AAAAAAAABIA/W23hbeoJZGc/s720/DSC00383.JPG[/img] Enjoying the Alpental Valley After what seemed like forever, we moved over to the first pitch of the climb. We decided to wait a little more as there was a ton of ice pelting the first pitch of ice from the two teams above. With a loud crack, Monica took a good sized chunk off of the helmet, which scared us a bit. We discussed our options and decided to wait a bit longer to hopefully lessen the steady stream of missiles heading in our direction. We thought about just doing the NEB instead, but since none of us had really looked at any beta for the route we chose to just stick to the plan and simul the north face. Eventually I lead out when the bombardment stopped. The first pitch was great. Sustained steep ice for a good 15-20m. Too thin in most spots to get any sort of screw in though. About 10m into the pitch, the ice attach started again. Not much to do but swing and kick in hard, turtle behind my tools and helmet and just wait until the storm stopped. It wasn't until Niki called out "half rope!" that I found ice even close to taking a screw. It seemed solid, but not wanting to linger in the firing zone and have the opportunity to test my screw, I moved on. The first pitch went slowly by. Make a few moves, turtle and get beat up by falling ice, make a few more moves, turtle again...repeat. I was moving a little slow, making sure my sticks and feet were good as I didn't trust that screw to hold much, but moving slow meant more time getting hit with ice. As I turtled, I kept waiting for that one ice chunk that would send me off of my points, giving me the one way express ride to the base of the climb. I swore at myself for doing something that was probably stupid, but the above snowfield was close. Pushing my worry and fear down and sacking up, I pulled over the last bit of vertical ice, slammed a picket into the snow, and kept moving...always looking upward and dodging ice. We finally made it to the bit of trees, which I thankfully slung to bring Niki and Monica up behind in order to reset the lead. [img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-u3Bw9rYWY2g/TyfsUoFGEPI/AAAAAAAABIQ/B_OY2EBZMA4/s720/DSC00387.JPG[/img] Niki on her way through the trees [img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4ZGLRcF6B_Q/Tyfsa5I9WQI/AAAAAAAABIg/BJwDaOasIOI/s912/DSC00388.JPG[/img] Monica down below our first belay. After getting some gear back and taking a bit to rewarm our fingers, I lead out again. The topout was no more than 45m away with one shorter section of vertical/near vertical ice, and the two parties before us had topped out, so no more playing dodgeball with the mountain. Easy climbing compared to what we just went through. I set a belay in a notch between the cornice and the summit block. The cornice isn't fully formed yet and easy to get over. [img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Aegcz1zmrr0/TyfsY0S9l-I/AAAAAAAABIY/E-FAdyfJtSI/s720/DSC00386.JPG[/img] Looking up the last pitch bit The weather has turned at this point and it was getting really windy as the clouds began to envelop the peak. We unroped and ran up to tag the summit and snap a quick picture, but didn't linger. The winds were growing stronger by the second and we wanted to get down before the weather got much worse. The descent was uneventful (found the right gully) and we ended up rappelling back down into the basin below instead of downclimbing. Luckily the rain held off and it was rather pleasant for the romp back to the car. Out of wet clothes by 1800. It was an awesome climb with some good exposure and definitely some pucker at places. I'm glad Niki and Monica got back out there and we had a great time. Here's to more successful climbs in the future! [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7sdHZQov9Mc/TyfsemDEZRI/AAAAAAAABIo/1FiHYGs_QFY/s912/DSC00389.JPG[/img] Gear Notes: only used two 13cm screws, 4 pickets, some slings for trees Approach Notes: Don't crash a romantic night in the woods and stick to the trail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CamelJockey Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 Nice work Nash, Niki, and Monocle!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B Deleted_Beck Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 Nicely done... been reading up on this route myself, lately Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 Nice work BP and the crew! May I ask what kind of orange colored tool is that hanging on your shoulder in the summit shot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaleHoopes Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 Not a viper with some tape?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave7 Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BootsandPants Posted February 1, 2012 Author Share Posted February 1, 2012 Thanks guys, we had a blast! May I ask what kind of orange colored tool is that hanging on your shoulder in the summit shot? Those be ergos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 I thought so Nice choice. How is the green pack working out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BootsandPants Posted February 1, 2012 Author Share Posted February 1, 2012 I thought so Nice choice. Been loving every swing! I've had my doubts with using them on alpine routes, but so far I wouldn't think I'd want anything else. How is the green pack working out? I really dig the pack and how clean and simple it is. Always thought I needed side compression straps in order to carry stuff like pickets and snowshoes, but with a little creativity it's not an issue at all anymore. The thing sits well on my back and feels like an extension of my body when I climb. It's a really well designed piece. Mon was complaining about her pack on the slog up and I think I convinced her to give it a look. Thanks for bringing this awesome pack option to us here in NA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaskadskyjKozak Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 did I understand the TR correctly? 100 feet of runout at the beginning of the first pitch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 Thanks for the feed back. All you need now is a better hammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 nice job finding a couple hotties to climb in the alpine with. That kind of hotness can melt out a ice climb real quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BootsandPants Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 did I understand the TR correctly? 100 feet of runout at the beginning of the first pitch? We didn't set our anchor right at the base of the climb, so it wasn't 35m on pure ice. We belayed was a little off to the side and below the moat as to let the others avoid the brunt of the ice fall. I'd say I was a good 25-30ft on ice at least until I could get a screw in. I didn't have any 10s either, only 13s so something may have worked lower. Thanks for the feed back. All you need now is a better hammer For sure. I'd like to get one but they seem to have run out of stock according to the interwebz nice job finding a couple hotties to climb in the alpine with. That kind of hotness can melt out a ice climb real quick. That explains why it was thin and I couldn't get a screw in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajpederson Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 nice job finding a couple hotties to climb in the alpine with. That kind of hotness can melt out a ice climb real quick. You have no idea........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 For a fellow Ergo user in the alpine, almost anything is possible. Check your messages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BootsandPants Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 You have no idea........ Haha, totally forgot about that picture! Nothing like hiking the chief in the pouring rain with a bunch of girls in spandex and cutoffs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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