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LaughingSquirrel

[TR] Liming, Yunnan, China - Multiple trad routes 1/29/2012

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Trip: Liming, Yunnan, China - Multiple trad routes

 

Date: 1/29/2012

 

Trip Report:

Location: Liming, Yunnan

Type: 2011-12 Development trip

 

Hey all, the team and I have been busy in China's first traditional climbing area. So far we have established over 85 new routes this season. Including Air China, a 5.13d put up by Matt Segal and multiple 5.12 and 12+/13-'s put up by myself and Eben Farnworth. I will be putting a new guidebook out at the end of the trip in the beginning of march. It will be available for free at junshanclimber.com so please check it out! Thank you Black Diamond and Kailas for sponsorship!

There has been rumor of access issue in Liming and over the last few months we have never been told not to climb and the government officials have been giving us thumbs up! Turns out they are building a hostel for climbers and backpackers in the Liming village. Looks like they see the value in our work and its great to be of service! Here are a few pictures for stoke! Love you all and come shred in China, Mike Dobie and team

 

 

Pitch 2 of Back to the Primitive went free at 11d/12a...I don't know which...you be the judge

Guide_Book-4445.jpg

 

Mick on The Great Owl 5.9

Guide_Book-4038.jpg

 

Eben Farnworth our photographer from the UK on a first ascent of a route that has yet to go free

Guide_Book-2943.jpg

 

Mike d on a route that Matt segal put up called the Faraway corner, went free at 5.11+

Guide_Book-1702.jpg

 

One valley that has seen most of the development There are at least eight more like this over 40 square kilometers.

0261.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

Cams, cams, cams, and slings and a 60m

 

Approach Notes:

Fly to Lijiang, China and take the three hour bus to Liming. Bring money and tape.

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Looks great, Mike! See you on the flip side.

R

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Man Adam, probably not going to be back around the US for a long time. We have a few other projects we are working on here on an epic scale. You should go on a climbing holiday to China man! Get some first ascents! Hope your well dude!

 

And Rad you rock man! I still remember that sweet route you put up next to Guillotine at 38. Sweet route man and sorry I couldn't get back to it this last summer. Miss you guys!!

 

Mike d

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Fantastic! I was traveling in Yunnan Province in Sept and only afterwards learned of this place. Ahhh living with regret...

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Hey Mike! I climbed with Austin this summer at Index and Squamish and asked him where you went, he didn't know. He is back in China now. China looks awesome! Crystal and I climbed at Vantage recently too, she graduates from medical school this March.Great to hear from you.

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I am heading to SE asia tomorrow pretty much and will be down there for two months. After seeing this post I'll be bringing my entire trad rack and hopefully make it up there!!

 

So are any of you going to still be around??

 

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Hey Turin, I'll be around Liming until the end of Feb. Around that time I will be posting the new updated guidebook on junshanclimber.com and you can get all the new route beta from it if we aren't around. But it would be RAD if you made it while we are here! Travel safe dude and you can contact me at mdobie012@gmail.com

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