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What to climb for the duration?


B Deleted_Beck

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Howdy

 

I know these "what should I climb?" threads are lazy, but I'm looking for recommendations for alpine climbs that are reasonable during this period of typical NW Oregon winter storm system pattern... I know there's a bunch of great peaks up in Washington that might be fairly avy safe, low enough elevation that they're not death traps for weather, and still enjoyable and challenging to climb, but being a working father, and not made of money, I simply do not have the time or money to drive for 4-6 hours and get on a 4-6+ hour approach.

 

During this latest cold/low elevation snow, I wanted to get on Saddle Mountain (very close to home in Saint Helens, Oregon), explore some off-trail route possibilities. My partner bailed 2 hours before we were supposed to go on Saturday (cold and snowy), weather was supposed to be WET today, and I have no idea of that would have fulfilled my craving for alpine adventure or if it would have just turned into a cold, wet mudfest even if we'd been able to go Saturday..

 

But that's really my hope- To find a mountain or three, here in the NW quadrant of Oregon, covered in some form of frozen water (dare I hope for some ice?), requiring technical gear and ability to reach the top, that's low enough to climb in shitty weather, and that will hopefully not avalanche all over my game plan... does NOT have to be a particularly high regarded climb, just anything that'll get my HR up till Hood is stable enough to climb again. Maybe a long 4th or multi-pitch low 5th class route, frozen water or not?

 

Any suggestions?

 

Thanks

 

-Ben

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Well, I can think of two areas you can access w/o avy danger - one with an alpine feel and the other maybe some ice climbing. They both have long approaches though, so that would make it feel more alpine? :)

 

There's some interesting crags up around Silver Star Mountain (the one near the Gorge). Due to a fire many years ago, that whole area has an alpine feel to it, though it's below treeline. It should have a fair amount of snow now, but I haven't been up there to confirm that. There are crags (Sturgeon Rock and Pyramid Rock, Sturgeon Rock shown below) that you can reach without crossing avy terrain. Pretty solid rock too. From Washougal it's a one hour drive and three mile ski or snowshoe to get there.

View_from_Silver_Star_-_crag.jpg

 

The other area that comes to mind is Coethedral. Not alpine, but a pretty cool place if you can manage the long approach in winter. From Portland it's a one hour drive on pavement then ten miles on a gravel road. I was able to drive seven miles up the gravel road a month ago because logging trucks had beaten the snow down. Maybe have to ski the whole way now though so bring a tent, or use a snowmobile. A bit past the trailhead to The Rectory, and just off the left side of the road, is a seep on the mountainside that was just beginning to ice up. I have no idea what condition it's in now.

ice_1.jpg

ice_2.jpg

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Alas, gentlemen... I don't ski.

 

Never too late to get started. If you are eager to get out in the mountains, live permanently in the PCNW and don't want to drive far, I am not sure that you have another option but adapt to conditions.

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LOL! Someone should have mentioned that to Newt a while back:-)

 

Do you have a bike that would work on a gravel or dirt road Ben?

 

 

 

 

I'm not sure. I have a bike, but the wife says it's for pavement... I'd thought it was more versatile than that, but I'm not sure I've ever actually made physical contact with it, let alone ridden it or studied it. Bike approach to something happenin'?

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