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mhux

Drytooling at Rocky Butte

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I remember seeing something about drytooling at rocky butte a while back (in fact I think there was even a mixed climbing party there?), and I'd love to get out and practice there. Any suggestions on ethics/routes/ratings from those who know?

 

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john frieh's yer boy - got a few stitches in the forehead after a sesh there a good many moons back now (and i seem to recall, the day before life insurance adjuster made a Friendly Visit) :lmao:

 

jesus, never thought my search skills would be so shit as to find this - why it that google is a better search engine for this shit than, ya know, the actual search feature? :)

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/983741/1

Edited by ivan

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why it that google is a better search engine for this shit than, ya know, the actual search feature? :)

I've found the same thing. I've noticed a lot of forums appear to use the same software and the search engiens all suck. Google rules... for now. But back to the topic...

 

Dry tooling at RB sounds like fun! I'm a newbie at this and only have one too (Petzl Aztarex hammer), but I'd love the opportunity to get out and learn something. So... I hope someone starts this up again and I hope a few of you might tolerate my ignorance and bestow some knowledge on me.

 

In the meantime, anyone have an Aztarex adze they want to sell? (From what I've read I'm guessing the adze isn't good for anything except hitting myself in the head as far as dry tooling is concerned, but I want it for ice and can't afford to buy tools just for dry tooling.) I decided on the Petzl Aztarex because I'm a skinny weakling and it's lighter than others. I'm not sure how long I'd last swinging a heavier tool. Is there a recommended pick I should buy for the Aztarex or will the pick it came with work for dry tooling?

 

Where can I buy a face shield for my helmet? (I have a Camp Pulse and a Camp Armour.) Or are they only available for helmets specifically designed for ice climbing?

 

Anything else I can do to prepare, besides doing some pullups? I am sooooooo out of shape. Ah, to be 18 again!

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Trivial Pinnacle wall (by the tree #7): 5.8 to 5.10b, 3 sets of bolted anchors from which you rap down to the base of the wall.

No bolts, but all routes take good gear. See PRC 3rd edition.

 

In between Trivial Pinnacle and Silver Bullet Bluff.

5.11b? (Bill? it is not listed in the PRC) with the prominent roof - good for figure 4-ing. One wobbly rusted bolt on top, we rap off the tree.

 

6729683883_a9bb0c17ce_z.jpg

6729683971_fb72e6e2e5_z.jpg

 

 

And then there is this, between Silver Bullet and Video Bluff:

dry_tool_route.jpg

 

John F and Bryan S might have established a couple more routes, but I am not sure about their precise location.

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Awesome, that's super helpful! That was the thread I was talking about actually, guess I should have just googled it...

anyway I'll look for the scratch marks in addition to what you guys posted, thanks!

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Hey pcg,

 

Have been drytooling at the bluff recently. Maybe we could get another party going to do some intro to mixed climbing. My advice to you is:

1. Don't buy an adze. People don't really use those for ice either. it is fine on your ice axe but unnecessary on ice tools.

2. The Aztarex is great for a second tool (that's what I use too) but not great for ice or mixed. The problem is they are actually too light. It can take a lot of effort to get the head to penetrate ice. Too straight for good hooking regardless of the pick. There are a few reasonable options for tools these days. Save your pennies and get 2 good tools if you are interested in climbing harder ice or mixed routes.

3. Believe Petzl Elios has a shield option. There is a shield for the Camp helmet at Mtn. Shop

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Any suggestions on ethics/routes/ratings from those who know?

 

 

Nastia suggested several good spots to drytool at Rocky Butte. Trivial Wall, the area between Trivial Wall and Silver Bullet Bluff, and the area to the right of Centurion. Additionally, there's a new swath of rock exposed just to the right of the Poodle Pinnacle that might make for a good drytooling area. Super easy access. Someone might want to throw some anchors in up there though. It bums me out to see the drytooling scars on some of the nicer older climbs out there. Vertical Therapy, Crack Warrior, Espresso among many others.

 

 

Chad

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It sure would be nice if dry tool enthusiasts  would stay off existing/established climbs at Rocky Butte.  Some great climbs like Vertical therapy, Trivial Pursuit and Jack of Hearts have already been damaged. I get that RB is easy access and not pristine but some of us have been climbing there a long time and really enjoy it. Can't you find your own lines?

 

Edited by OldClimber1
miss spelled
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