111 Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Trip: Smith Rock - West Face of le Monkey Date: 1/17/2012 Trip Report: Thursday we reconvened at Smith for one of the coldest days of the year so far with our resident Eugenian, and the same shit-show from the Wolf Rock TR. The idea was that we all had nothing better to do in the cold clear weather, so we should aid west face. This was a new experience for each of us in some form or another whether it be a first aid lead, first monkey summit, or first time figuring out hauling pigs. Things got off to a good start when our resident cheap-ass showed us his “fifi” that explicitly says “not for climbing” on it, and I realized that the haul bag I borrowed was without a hip belt. Forrest once again somehow convinced us that for twice the pain we could get there in half the time by going over misery ridge. Never again with a full hauler. As any good adventure begins…we got to the base way too late; a poor prospect as the forcast called for a 17 deg. low that night. Frasier led p1 in a speedy fashion aiding on gear but clipping the bolts off to the left as his leave behind pro for a portion of the climb. I came up and started the haul with a 3:1 which was incredibly slow but at least I know now. Then I sat. And sat. They were leading the next 300 ft, which really wasn’t that bad, but once I started seeing the beginnings of sunset…from the top of the first pitch, I started getting cranky. At least I had my downy and the speakers. Luckily I didn’t have to wait much longer. I tell ya, that swing out from the last belay, into space, in the dark, was terrifying. It took a few minutes to psych myself up for it. The only excitement on route happened above me. Frasier blew a small nut and factor 2’d the anchor instead of using our pirate sword stick clip to clip the first bolt of (p3?). Tough fall for a guy who got run over by an old lady in Eugene a few days before! Then we had ourselves a good old fashioned hoot’nanny! It is all a little hazy still, but hopefully some of the others will chime in to provide insight on what I don’t remember. I just remember lots of wine. The morning was slow and hungover, we realized that no one was going to make it back to the valley in time for the appointments the had, so we said fook it, and went to Sunspot after a leisurely hike around the bend. Gear Notes: too much water, not enough tequila, pirate sword stick clip, hella draws, speakerz w/ techno, not enough jumars, carpet square for padding a sharp edge. Approach Notes: hike around the river trail, you wont regret it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 you forgot the duraflame logs for the raging fire!!! i plan on spending many more nights in that motherfucker before i shuffle off the mortal coil - reckon it's technically illegal though, so i've been trying to keep the spray about it to a minimum n' remember yer cover story: see here, like, we were just practicing to big wall, hauling all this heavy shit, n' fuck, we got benighted in the cave!!! jesus, at least we had plenty of emergency gear n' liquor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
111 Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 we had a story...always train'n! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 last time I climbed that route was in January of 1997, slept in the cave, found a petzel zoom, nearly all buttonheads on the "bolt" ladders, could pull some out by and for easy inspection then re-insert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 (edited) last time I climbed that route was in January of 1997, slept in the cave, found a petzel zoom, nearly all buttonheads on the "bolt" ladders, could pull some out by and for easy inspection then re-insert man, ain't nothing like it now - the shiteating grin i got last time starting up the mother of all bolt-ladders there on the looooong second pitch (better than the 1st pitch of the leaning wall i reckon) just as dusk was setting in was just that, shiteating still, despite whatever progress i've made as an efficient aid-clibmer, getting that fucking bolt to start the last bit of ladder, just above the 2nd intermediate anchor!!! just haven't been able to do it w/o cheating...sigh. the only required bit of gear coming up and over the lip and then onto 1 move of choss-matiering is what makes it ultimately more enjoyable than the LT. Edited January 20, 2012 by ivan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvashtarkatena Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Is that a falling corn chip or a shag carpet scrap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZimZam Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Is that a falling corn chip or a shag carpet scrap? Gear Notes: too much water, not enough tequila, pirate sword stick clip, hella draws, speakerz w/ techno, not enough jumars, carpet square for padding a sharp edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 (edited) From the little bit back machine, January 1997, you can see some of the old rivets/button heads. Clay and Nate of OSU joining the ascent. Bivied in the west face cave with mice and all joining the festivities. Big orange rafting drybag with ducktaped on webbing for haul bag. Shapp dog trying to pull the 5.11 exit from the cave. Edited January 25, 2012 by shapp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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