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KaskadskyjKozak

[TR] Mount Hood - Reid Headwall 1/8/2012

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i still dont know wtf is the diff between old chute and mazamas chute but 'think' i know after this weekend, it being the first time in many forays over a few years that I heard anyone demarcate the two.

 

going up from 'hot rocks' veering to climbers right, that way, was well tracked semi-steps, of crudish dry snow about 2-5 inches deep over a layer of hard ice. so that bit of snow over the top helped imo. downclimbing was okay i guess a 2nd tool coulda been nice since i was only able to get the tip of my ice ax in for upper body anchoring whilst i was kicking below to secure my feet, but, meh, just concentrate and it was fine. there was someone who was doing their first climb and they were sketched out there and uber slow.

 

i think the other spot where bkb0000 went down had a bit more snow--its where the skiiers/boarders were descending 10-20 ft before strapping on.

 

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Yup, busy, indeed - we had 2 teams of 3 traversing at the base of the route - intention had been to do what I call the "full on" Reid route, but with all that stuff coming down, we decided to go up Leuthold, but my partners started to get hit, and didn't quite care for it, especially after an ice missle brushed the hair of one of them as it whistled by. . ., so then we just turned around and went back (and I lost my ice screw. . .). I remember seeing some folks up on the right side of the Reid, who seemed to be there for quite a while. . .

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Yup. I've noticed that. . . I have to remember that while those nice little ice screw clips are wonderful for racking/unracking ice screws while climbing, I have to take the screws off and put them in a safe place (my backpack) if I'm just wandering around with my harness on. . .

 

leora

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Would someone mind linking me a previous post / beta on the route variations mentioned earlier in this post (a reference to 14a & 14b). I am researching the route & would appreciate the beta.

 

Thank you :)

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Would someone mind linking me a previous post / beta on the route variations mentioned earlier in this post (a reference to 14a & 14b). I am researching the route & would appreciate the beta.

 

Thank you :)

 

What Alex says. As for my group and Mito's, we both topped off on the "middle" route up the Reid. There is a "left variation" that is longer and ends up closer to the summit. You go up through the slot like we did but then continue up and left rather than traversing right to the west crater rim. There is also a third route that winds up through the Castle Crags, so at least three major variations. Each has its own possibilities to vary too though.

 

 

 

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