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Marmot Prince

Screamer for Belayer

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The pug looks very attentive, probably don't need a screamer
Logic Fail.

You wouldn't need a screamer if the pug was inattentive. More rope slippage with an inattentive belayer, and all that, ya know. With an attentive pug, a screamer would become more necessary (in your world), as more dynamism is called for (in your world). Just sayin'...

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Trad climbing falls are no particular problem and trad climbing doesn't need any "forces taken out". Also, if you want to spend some idle time pondering something then consider starting with this - "safely push trad climbing more..." - then maybe try to stop thinking about trad climbing that way. Trad climbing isn't 'safe' and why would you want it to be? If it were, it wouldn't be trad climbing.

Not sure what to say here. I've climbed with alot of people. Although we all enjoy the feeling of climbing, I know the majority don't consider the possibility of accidents a plus.

Falling is not an "accident", it's a normal aspect of climbing - it's what happens when when you mismanage the subjective (you) and objective (rock) risks inherent with venturing on to vertical environments. If falling weren't part of climbing I wouldn't bother doing it - it's rock climbing and not just another risk-free, suburban entertainment option.

 

I don't understand the responses in this thread. I'm asking why wouldn't taking some load off be useful? Are we really arguing that people die or are seriously injured every year when protection fails? Why do people spend $$$$ on trad gear and why is new gear constantly entering the market if falling on gear is not a problem.

Competent people have been falling on gear for a long time. Maybe think of it this way - one of my climbing partners is a Svengali on guitar and he can pick up a toy guitar and make it do amazing things; I don't play the guitar worth shit and if you give me a fine, handmade guitar I will make is sound like crap. It's the same deal with gear. I can climb on ancient gear and fall on it with no problem; others may take the latest, greatest gear and be ripping placements all over if they fall on it.

 

Most trad gear, old and new, is basically great and it isn't about the gear, it's about the placements. If you suck at placing gear or lack the knowledge, experience, and judgment to have confidence in your placements, then you'll probably be inclined to heavily [self-]limiting what you on rock. You will probably avoid falling at all cost and I wouldn't blame you for either.

 

You miss the point with your "taking some load off" comment; 'taking the load off' isn't a viable alternative to, nor a reasonable or effective way to compensate for, poor or marginal placements. In short, there are no substitutes for solid placement skills and good judgment around what climbing / falling options any given placement provides.

 

I frequently climb over placements most folks would consider 'marginal', but I have a solid understanding of every placement I make and just what it likely affords me in the way of it's performance. That feeds into my evaluation of the choices I have when moving past any such placement.

 

Bottom line? Don't try to fix or change the gear or the way we use it; instead try to improve your relationship to the gear and it's use. I.e. become a better, more competent climber with solid skills and judgment. My advice would be to skip this kind of conjecture and step up your own game. That, and try to find as many highly competent leaders to second as possible.

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in addition to screaming while belaying, i also chain-smoke, read, consume dangerous drugs, muse outloud on my philosophies of condiments and civilizations, as well as sing off-key, absurd irish ballads - i find this generally prevents my leaders from falling and generally gets them the hell up the route and out of ear-shot much faster than the usual white-bread belayer

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in addition to screaming while belaying, i also chain-smoke, read, consume dangerous drugs, muse outloud on my philosophies of condiments and civilizations, as well as sing off-key, absurd irish ballads - i find this generally prevents my leaders from falling and generally gets them the hell up the route and out of ear-shot much faster than the usual white-bread belayer

 

Did you forget the stream of beta or are you too addled and uninvolved for that?

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this is how my harness is usually rigged, main belay device on two screamers, grigri on a shorty screamer, then backup device and tiblock on a scream aid girth hitched through the belay loop. i think this is what most guys in yosemite are doing these days

 

10210608.jpg

 

You NEED double opposed locking biners on the Gri Gri for this system to work.

 

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I don't play the guitar worth shit and if you give me a fine, handmade guitar I will make is sound like crap.

 

Please give me that fine handmade guitar.

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You should probably just lead on a bunch of screamers girth hitched to one another.

 

:lmao:

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in addition to screaming while belaying, i also chain-smoke, read, consume dangerous drugs, muse outloud on my philosophies of condiments and civilizations, as well as sing off-key, absurd irish ballads - i find this generally prevents my leaders from falling and generally gets them the hell up the route and out of ear-shot much faster than the usual white-bread belayer

Even more remarkable, there is a low quality music player blaring endless loud shit music while this circus is happening and yet it still is interesting and enjoyable. Explain that somehow. You'd never hear the screamer over the music anyway.

 

resized_Ivan_shoeing_up_for_stone_soup2.jpg

 

LOL!

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If only someone would invent a piece of climbing equipment that behaved like an infinite number of microscopic screamers connected together that dynamically absorbed the force of a falling climber. Is it even possible?

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If only someone would invent a piece of climbing equipment that behaved like an infinite number of microscopic screamers connected together that dynamically absorbed the force of a falling climber. Is it even possible?

 

:lmao:

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this is how my harness is usually rigged, main belay device on two screamers, grigri on a shorty screamer, then backup device and tiblock on a scream aid girth hitched through the belay loop. i think this is what most guys in yosemite are doing these days

 

10210608.jpg

 

i am sorry but that shit is hilarious.

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If only someone would invent a piece of climbing equipment that behaved like an infinite number of microscopic screamers connected together that dynamically absorbed the force of a falling climber. Is it even possible?

 

Probably, but it would be totally shot after one fall. Then what, smart guy?

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If only someone would invent a piece of climbing equipment that behaved like an infinite number of microscopic screamers connected together that dynamically absorbed the force of a falling climber. Is it even possible?
Probably, but it would be totally shot after one fall. Then what, smart guy?
I think you missed the joke, E-rock.

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If only someone would invent a piece of climbing equipment that behaved like an infinite number of microscopic screamers connected together that dynamically absorbed the force of a falling climber. Is it even possible?

 

Probably, but it would be totally shot after one fall. Then what, smart guy?

 

Hey ChoadaB, don't despair, sounds like a Chinese made climbing rope, anyone know when BD's new line of ropes is coming out? :poke:

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If only someone would invent a piece of climbing equipment that behaved like an infinite number of microscopic screamers connected together that dynamically absorbed the force of a falling climber. Is it even possible?
Probably, but it would be totally shot after one fall. Then what, smart guy?
I think you missed the joke, E-rock.

 

I think you did, Sobo.

Edited by E-rock

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If only someone would invent a piece of climbing equipment that behaved like an infinite number of microscopic screamers connected together that dynamically absorbed the force of a falling climber. Is it even possible?
Probably, but it would be totally shot after one fall. Then what, smart guy?
I think you missed the joke, E-rock.
I think you did, Sobo.
I think we both can play that game, E-rock. :)

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