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JasonG

[TR] Unicorn Peak - Standard 12/22/2011

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Trip: Unicorn Peak - Standard

 

Date: 12/22/2011

 

Trip Report:

FWA of the 2011-12 winter!! The long spell of unusual December weather continued through the first full day of winter this year, and a Smoot/Nelson ticking party was organized for an assault on Unicorn peak (via the standard route). I had last climbed it in the summer more than a decade ago, so it was pretty much like a new mountain for me. WBK and NTM came along for the fun (or rumors of summit babes?), and made sure that things never veered towards the serious. Well, maybe until the last couple of miles slogging on the road back to the car, whereupon WBK got chewed out for pissing on a snowbank. Pretty funny actually ("Could you at least scrape the yellow snow away?"), considering Mr. Anal wasn't even a ranger. There is a first time for everything, I guess.

 

 

Slogging in on the Reflection Lakes Road:

MG_6672.jpg

 

Unicorn Peak, the objective for the day:

MG_6678.jpg

 

Climbing up to the col south of the peak:

MG_6699.jpg

 

NTM at the south col:

MG_6701.jpg

 

WBK and NTM pause to admire the view and fuel up:

MG_6704.jpg

 

Approaching the summit block. We climbed right up the middle:

MG_6717.jpg

 

WBK on lead:

MG_6725.jpg

 

Steep and fun!:

MG_6734.jpg

 

Summit! Tick, tick:

MG_6740.jpg

 

NTM on rappel:

MG_6751.jpg

 

Did I mention that you have fantastic views of Rainier all day?:

MG_6772.jpg

 

On the deproach, WBK with Mt. Adams behind:

MG_6763.jpg

 

Interesting lenticulars kept us company on the hike back:

MG_6791.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

Axe, crampons, half rope, small rack. The rock was pretty clear of snow and ice, so other winter ascents may find it more challenging. For us, it felt like a short bit of mid-fifth.

 

Approach Notes:

For once, snowshoes were the ticket. Ski conditions were absolutely terrible. Follow the summer route from the reflection lakes road, parking at Narada Falls.

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Looks like a great trip! Made even better by the use of the clever snow-shoe apparatus! Those things really are one of Gods blessings!

 

And, who is this, this WBK and NTM??? They looks very much like a Russian couple who sold me very bad salvaged vehicle couple months ago in Bellevue.

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Great TR Jason! Great day out and stellar photos as per usual. Missed Richard up there for sure!

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Ah yes, they did mention the selling of vehicles to support their mountain habit. It is Russian way, no?

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thanks for leaving out the photos of mrs. duong.

running dog- perhaps you would like to trade vehicle for 3 good pair of levis jeans? american made! or 1 nike wind jacket- blue and pink color-way...?

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Hey Keithish, is that you doing what I think it is? Juggling ice tools??? :shock:

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Hey Sobo. Yes, a fine day on the summit of Ben Nevis, back in the day with 45-50 cm straight ice tools. Probably harder with the bent shafts and extra grips on modern tools and I'm very out of practice...

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BTW, guys, in what time you were at the trailhead or Narada Falls parking? I'm asking cause on Sunday we were trying to reach the summit and had to go back from the saddle as we hadn't enough daylight time to return after being on top.

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I think we left the car (@ Narada Falls) about 0900 and were back about 1500-1530. Good travel conditions will make or break the trip- we had very firm conditions, especially up high.

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