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[TR] Unicorn Peak - Standard 12/22/2011


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Trip: Unicorn Peak - Standard


Date: 12/22/2011


Trip Report:

FWA of the 2011-12 winter!! The long spell of unusual December weather continued through the first full day of winter this year, and a Smoot/Nelson ticking party was organized for an assault on Unicorn peak (via the standard route). I had last climbed it in the summer more than a decade ago, so it was pretty much like a new mountain for me. WBK and NTM came along for the fun (or rumors of summit babes?), and made sure that things never veered towards the serious. Well, maybe until the last couple of miles slogging on the road back to the car, whereupon WBK got chewed out for pissing on a snowbank. Pretty funny actually ("Could you at least scrape the yellow snow away?"), considering Mr. Anal wasn't even a ranger. There is a first time for everything, I guess.



Slogging in on the Reflection Lakes Road:



Unicorn Peak, the objective for the day:



Climbing up to the col south of the peak:



NTM at the south col:



WBK and NTM pause to admire the view and fuel up:



Approaching the summit block. We climbed right up the middle:



WBK on lead:



Steep and fun!:



Summit! Tick, tick:



NTM on rappel:



Did I mention that you have fantastic views of Rainier all day?:



On the deproach, WBK with Mt. Adams behind:



Interesting lenticulars kept us company on the hike back:



Gear Notes:

Axe, crampons, half rope, small rack. The rock was pretty clear of snow and ice, so other winter ascents may find it more challenging. For us, it felt like a short bit of mid-fifth.


Approach Notes:

For once, snowshoes were the ticket. Ski conditions were absolutely terrible. Follow the summer route from the reflection lakes road, parking at Narada Falls.

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