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Taluscat

Sloan Peak history?

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seeking Any info specifically an overview of all existing lines currently from reliable/informed people about past activity on the West facing aspect of this amazing peak! trying to dot my I's and cross my T's per say..thanks alot, kevin

Edited by Taluscat

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as far as i know, no one has done an interesting winter line on it, besides you and your partner of course. many have oogled, and or tried it. I tried three times, once in very shitty snow conditions and it took way to long to just get to it, once with a horrendous head cold and 1 foot of new snow, and once immediately following an extremely traumatic break-up with a week straight of sleeping and drinking.

 

I'd love to see you line. There exist some VERY hard and very long FA potential. IMO it could be the "trophy wall" of the cascades.

 

p.s. BE CAREFUL ON THE APPROACH. The entrance slope to the NW and W face is extremely avy prone. I would suggest a bivy at the base. I wouldn't be surprised if one of the longer, harder lines would require a bivy en route.

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there is an amazing line just before sloan on the approach. Marcus and I dubbed it "low hanging fruit". I was in terrible climbing shape on my last attempt. Marcus gave it a go, but backed off (i think he said b/c the ice was too shitty, but I bet it was b/c I was a mess).

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thanks Mike for your response..We will provide photos! we dubbed the W. face the "crystal ball wall" because of the futuristic routes that are there(though not in cond right now)- i completely agree there is bivy potential on some of those..

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