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Cams- opinions on mid to large size cams

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Well I've lost custody of my entire rack. I've moved and there appears to be quite a bit of mixed and gear routes right out my back door. Its time to replace it.


My old rack was old school BD cams, pre-recall aliens and some wild country small pieces. I haven't been climbing much the last few years so I haven't placed any of the newer stuff.


I've read BC's small cam review.


What are your thoughts on the best mid size to large pieces both in terms of funcitonality and value.

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Hard to go wrong with the new Camalots.

I'm also a fan of the Metolius Super Cams as well (though some people aren't)

The WC Helium friends look awfully sweet to.


Tried a DMM Dragon and was quite nice, but I verall don't like the thumb stud so much, and I can see reslinging being a pain with only being able to use the skinny slings.


All that said, most of my mid to large size cams are DMM 4CU's. Good quality gear and some of the cheapest on the market.

In the large sizes (#4 DMM = old #3.5 Camalot) the DMM's are ~$55 a piece instead of $70 or $80 for a Camalot, and plenty durable.


IMHO Link cams are great, but only in addition to a basic rack of something else. Too fiddly / maybe not durable enough to build your core rack on.

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From what I've seen, the newer gen looped Camalots are a mainstay on many racks. Since you already have experience placing them in the past I'd go that route. They also go on sale more so than other cams. New ones can often be snagged at 25% or more off if you look around, which make them a clear choice in the value department.


Link Cams are fun to have one or two imo. They've come in handy for me at times, but are definitely a love/hate thing with most people. I generally find myself reaching for my camalots first.


I have a few tech friends and they're alright. I feel that they're a little more finicky than camalots or mastercams, but it's not really an issue. You can probably find them for a great price now that the helium friends are out.


A friend's DMM Dragons I got to try were pretty slick, but they're too spendy for my tastes. That's good beer money wasted! :brew:


My 0.02

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Rack: 1 set BD C4s .75-3 or 4 with 2x #2 and #3

1 set Totem cams Blue - Red (#1 BD size)

This will get you doubles in all the mid sizes


1 set Totem Basic Cams (Aliens) Green to Red (.5 BD Size ish)

Couple of C3s if you want more in the smaller sizes



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