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kevino

2011/12 Washington Ice Conditions

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Banks Lake on 01/01/2012 - Devil's Punch Bowl

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Leavenworth on 01/02/2012 - Hubba Hubba area

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There was almost no ice on the Banks Lake area on 01/01, just Devil's Punch Bowl was in.

And Hubba Hubba isn't in right now in my opinion, low protection possibility.

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The girlfriend and I went exploring up the denny creek drainage on Saturday- We knew that finding ice was highly unlikely, but I needed to break in new boots, and we had a new years party to get to, so we went to denny... There was lots of running water. No ice to speak of. light powder snow maybe 6-8 inches on top of the harder pack below. Good training day... Got my new boots a little broken in... the sun was out... but thats about all I could say for it. More hopeful for this weekend? If It doesn't get colder by tomorrow, I think we're heading to canada.

 

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I skied around Chair Peak yesterday, saw lots of ice splotches around Snow/Chair/Melaklawa lakes. You could probably piece together some climbing and maybe even find a good line.

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Banks is in! led Troskys last night with headlamps and TR'd the cable. H202 is in. The cable is in. The Punch Bowl is in led that new years eve. The corner climb is in (IDK the actual name just down the road on the right hand side from H202. There is enough to stay busy.

 

Solid ice season if you put some work into it!

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IMG_01691.JPG

 

Here is a pic from last night with Vern of the Punchbowl/Trotsky's. He may be a bit more optimistic than I but at least Trotsky's Revenge took screws. The Cable was a great TR but very wet and not quite touching down (although some ice blobs at the start made the mixed moves easier). Extra fun in the dark after work. ;-)

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Does anyone know if the ice up by snow lake survived this weeks warmth? Or do I have to drive out to leavenworth to find some ice?

 

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If you look four posts above yours counterfeitfake said it did. Freezing levels were down below 3k this morning and all day out skiing. Go get some.

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There's no appreciable ice in leavenworth from what I saw yesterday. Nothing was climbable in the Icicle including Mountaineers Creek and Hubba Hubba. It was dark when I drove the Tumwater, so I can't speak to that.

 

If you're thinking of going up to Colchuck to find ice, don't bother. The only stuff I saw up in the mountains were those little bit up by Hel Basin and the usual tiny drips at Colchuck Lake. It's the driest and least icy in that I've seen in the last decade.

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Headed to Snoquamie Pass today intending to go to the end of snow lake again and climb some more ice lines down there but when we passed under "Flow Reversal" it looked uber fat and when we got around the corner and saw that "Source Lake Line" was finally looking pretty good for the first time this season we decided to head up there and climb it. The crux section was a fairly sporty hollow icicle matrix... some delicate climbing... for a short section... here are some photos... maybe a few of actually leading the thing later...there on another camera

 

Flow Reversal

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The Source Lake Line

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Nice work. Was that you guys walking down by the sahalee ski club around 0800? I passed a group of climbers driving home from work this morning.

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Nice work. Was that you guys walking down by the sahalee ski club around 0800? I passed a group of climbers driving home from work this morning.

 

Nope, we headed out from the upper alpental parking lot.

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Found good AI conditions, sustained climbing up to 50 degrees in a gully on SW face of Guye Peak. 7 Hrs 45 mins round trip. I'd say I spent 4.5 of those hours in snowshoes over deep powder, and then probably two hours in crampons and the rest in boots glissading.

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Was that you guys walking down by the sahalee ski club around 0800? I passed a group of climbers driving home from work this morning.

 

Probably us heading for Guye on Saturday. Climbed the S gully direct line. Will write up a TR tonight for a conditions report.

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I think I saw ya'lls tracks. Did somebody in your party posthole their way to the summit? I saw some major holes in between snowshoe tracks. Big props to whoever slogged that out without skis or snowshoes.

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We are stronger than we are smart.
Stealing that for my next autosig, after I tire of the current one... :)

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Yesterday we were in Mt.Rainier NP. Still no climbable ice in Narada Falls and near Nisqually bridge :(

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This has been a grim season so far for Cascade waterfall ice that isn't an epic slog from the car.

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