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bwwakaranai

[TR] Darrington/Illusion Wall - The Page 12/5/2011

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uh...so I take it the community would rather I not leave a short fixed line on that bolt. no worries. :)

Smedley votes yes for fixed line.

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Ive have a lot to learn and appreciate the history lesson. Darrington is an amazing place and I enjoy hearing stories from people who REALLY know it. We are so lucky to have these walls to play on, and to be able to do it with what is a relatively small community of climbers, is somthing special.

 

Everyone I've ever met or climbed with from cc.com has been solid. Never met a new partner from here that I didnt like. I especially enjoy reading the TRs. From grandmas hike to the first winter ascent of that Grade VII. A big portion of my tick list is derived from the TRs I find here. They get me through the soggy western wa winters. I also enjoy the open dialect and somtimes brutal honesty. It's freakin entertaining :)

 

It seems to me adventure will exist in Darrington for a long time to come and I hope that sharing route info doesnt effect that negatively.

 

We most certainly would never trample an existing route to put up a new one. In this case we found no evidence of fixed gear or slings, but its such a sea of granite. One thing about top-down tactics is that- in this sea of granite you are able take a direct line that you wouldnt normally on lead, or so it seems. Next year, I wanna learn it the hard way. But like stated before, this is for a different dicussion

 

I have a hard time believing Smedley would need a fixed line on that section. I tried to keep up with him on a down hill coming off of Calendar Butte and about shat myself. Moving gracefully through wet western WA forest still perplexes me, even after living here for 12 years.

 

 

 

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When I spoke to Smedley about this thread and Genes mention of such a fixed line, Smed said he has thought for a long time there should be one.

Does he need one? Nah. Does he think one is a good idea? Yes.

 

On a side note, have we met B?

It may have been one of the other calendar butte renaissance guys I met in Oso.

 

 

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Interesting thread. It would be informative to have these posters state full names of people for those who aren't in the know.

 

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chris, these are not "my routes". I am all for cutting a tree here or there and eating tasty animals though.

Peace.

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Sweet write up, especially including the pics. It is super cool that this was a "community effort" which can be viewed as an example of the current ethics on the wall. The new routes on the Illusion wall are put up by or heavily influenced by some of the Darrington pioneers and fit in well with the rest of the routes in the region.

After wrapping down and next to the Page so many times I can't wait to actually climb the thing.

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We were up on Excalibur last June, believe you guys dropped a hammer that day. Guy in this pic indicated he thought it'd go in the 11's. Can't wait to give it a try.

 

6027949987_52b4a94153.jpg

Edited by newdawnfades

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Actually Darryl was probably referring to his and Chris's new route "Schizo". The Page is only 5.10 and way less sustained, though it still has its moments.

 

Darryl bought me a way better wall hammer than what I had, but thats the kind of guy he is. Good man.

 

Schizo looks awsome for sure, cant wait to try it too.

Soon...

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