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mccallboater

Daughter needs new mtn boots

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My daughter with the ice climbing bug needs boots for for xmas. She wears a 'normal' women's size 8. She's thinking a double boot for warmth, but not so huge she can't climb mixed routes. So no Olympus Mons boots, or models like them. I've found a Koflach degre size 8 on Ebay with intuition liners that we could re-cook. A good choice? The boots would be lighter than most warm singles, but warmer, I would guess. Any ladies out there with strong opinions about fit? Performance on rock and approaches? Dane's blog had some good things to say about this boot.

 

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Scarpa Omega for me. One of the lightest doubles available.

Being fairly low bulk - thence significant weight reduction and more flex than other plastics - they are comfy on the long approaches/deproaches and sensitive on the technical terrain.

 

I wear wmn's US 7 and got them in the smallest available size - men's UK 6 and there is still a plenty of room for a thicker sock. The original insoles did not do much for me, - the green Superfeet is a way to go.

 

2011' Omegas have a new Thermo EVA liner that I dont have anything to comment on, but mine came with the Intuition liners. Due to my injured feet being shaped differently, I tried to bake and custom mold the Intuitions. A big mistake. The tongue and ankle cuffs tend to roll inwards at the recommended 175F and here are my ankles after 5400' elevation, 7 miles approach:

 

6473694483_9b3be3c708_z.jpg

 

6473752551_556db108dc_z.jpg

 

Professional boot fitter from now on!

 

 

 

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my wife needs some boots and she gets cold. thanks for the input, i thought those would be the best bet. she doesn't (and probably will never) lead ice, so warmth and comfort trump weight and precision. any other suggestions? the degree seem too clunk for anything but glacier slogging to me.

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La Sportiva Trango Extreme Evo Light GTX Boot (what a mouthful). not the cheapest, but works extremely well: hikes and even leads ice for you. for steeper stuff i use the trick with making an extra wrap with the crampon strap around the ankle to stiffen the cuff.

 

i'm not sure how cold is too cold for this boot, but it's generally done extremely well being submerged in snow for long periods of time. rainier.... very cold canmore...

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have you looked at la sportiva baruntse and scarpa phantom 6000? I bit pricey but warm.

 

Also the older scarpa phantom lites that fit small. I have a pair in size 42 that fit like a 41. They are pretty warm and comfy I have seen a few women wear these due to the narrower fit.

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Get what fits...

 

Personally I like Lowa boots and La sportiva boots

The are nice and snug in the heel ( I have preteen heels)

 

Edited by Laughingman

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Second the Omegas.

 

When you fit them since they have a thermofit liner fit the shell of the boot not the shell and liner. A tight two finger would have worked better for me. When i bought my pair it fit the boot and liner and regretted it, the magic happens when you bake them. Also Full and a half size shells are the same size eg 9 & 9.5 UK. Again fit the shell and mold the liners they will pack out and you'll have a toasty warm and precise (for a) double boot. Socks, I highly recommend only wearing thin polypro dress type socks with the intuition liners since they [liners] don't breath and wont soak up sweat like heavy wool socks.

 

Thermofiting is eeeeeasy, do it yourself. DO IT WITH RICE worked perfect for me!!!! Highly recommend and you wont run into Mitochondria problems.

 

http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/showthread.php/170547-Rice-Molding-Instructions-A-La-Intuition?s=6f27e42cf3f33e5d3ed793b10bb13050

 

 

Edited by Mentat

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Good points above. I replaced the stock liners in my Invernos with Intuitions after the stock ones packed out. The fit is disappointingly sloppy.

 

"The tongue and ankle cuffs tend to roll inwards"

 

This is my biggest complaint with my Intuition liners, and I had them molded at Marmot in Bellevue. My shins get rubbed raw. Any ideas how to fix this?

Edited by DPS

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Dan, I specifically asked the Mountain shop in PDX who thermofitted/salved my Intuitions to mold the rolled tops of the liners and so they were able to re-heat those sections only and then flattened them with a hammer for 5 min straight on each. It seemed to solve the problem.

 

BTW, I tried the Rice/microwave method with no success. Rice got badly melted, the kitchen was stinking for a week, and it is a royal pain in the neck to stuff those rice packed socks in the small sized intuitions.

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These are great tips, as is the Teton Gravity discussion on cooking intuition liners. I've done two pairs in the oven with good results, and I think I'll try that again. The trick is to NOT flex the liners at the ankle while the liners cool. That keeps the heel tight. But do use a fat toe cap for wiggle room and warmth. Along with a very thin pair of socks. Looks like daughter and I will get some quality time together fitting her new boots over the holidays.

I got her the Koflach Degre pair from Ebay. But just yesterday I saw a used pair of Scarpa Invernos in her size at Sierra Trading in Boise for $15, in case the Koflachs don't work.

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My wife got frostbite a couple years ago so she upgraded to the Baruntse boots. She's been plenty warm in them & this past May wore them on Denali and stayed toasty. She's a big fan both for warmth and comfort.

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BTW, I tried the Rice/microwave method with no success. Rice got badly melted, the kitchen was stinking for a week, and it is a royal pain in the neck to stuff those rice packed socks in the small sized intuitions.

 

Interested to know what you exaclty did (cooked uncooked rice)??? I was carefull to use a Nylon stocking (simple one from the womens clothing place) and used uncooked rice. This is the the same that Intuition sells with thier home fit kit. Perhaps it would have been better if i directed you to the company. The rice dong was their idea.

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