Lambone Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 yup, that pretty much sucks... here is mine, On the dreaded chimney pitch of the NE Butress of Higher Cathedral in Yos, I used every piece of gear and biner I had. Well, except for a few of those tiny nuts you rarely use and the chalk bag biner from who knows where. That was it. My German buddy was quite disturbed halfway up the squeeze when I told him not to fall! Also rapped off some tiny dead branch/stump things in Hyalite... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuz Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 Hiking up a very long and steep 4th class rock pile somewhere near Lilooet in plastic boots with a heavy pack one of my partners freaked and asked for a belay. Every rock moved, so that didn't seem like a good idea. I found a bush who's trunk was about the diameter of a pencil, wrapped a sling around it, and called it good. I figured he just needed a "psychological" belay anyway. I was surprised when he got to the bush and clipped into it. [ 10-29-2002, 08:44 PM: Message edited by: cuz ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul_detrick Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 The 2nd pitch of Falling Falls, left side. The ice ran out and was in a jungle, tyed some webbing around some tree parts laying over the edge, after my parner climbs up and checks it out,they are not atached to the tree. He had a few things to say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haireball Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 rappel off of a girth-hitched clump of grass, North Peak of Index, 1987 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Parker Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 On Drury Falls, the 70 meter rope went taut just as I crested the ice bulge at the top. There was still 25 feet of powdery snow to the big belay tree. Either I down climbed back over the exit bulge to find ice, or keep going. I gave the rope 5 tugs to my partner to "climb" and just bent way forward with the rope between my legs and crawled through the deep snow until I reached the tree. I would not have done this rock climbing, but justified it since we were ice climbing. On the way down, we rapped of a single (prototype)snarg with no teeth on the shaft and my first ever built v-thread. That was the first time I ever climbed with Erik! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 quote: Originally posted by David Parker: On Drury Falls, the 70 meter rope went taut just as I crested the ice bulge at the top. There was still 25 feet of powdery snow to the big belay tree. Either I down climbed back over the exit bulge to find ice, or keep going. I gave the rope 5 tugs to my partner to "climb" and just bent way forward with the rope between my legs and crawled through the deep snow until I reached the tree. I would not have done this rock climbing, but justified it since we were ice climbing. On the way down, we rapped of a single (prototype)snarg with no teeth on the shaft and my first ever built v-thread. That was the first time I ever climbed with Erik! I AM PRETTY SKETCHY ARNT I!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 quote: Originally posted by HeadSpace: a old rusty pin and a star drive bolt, yuk! Not very many years ago, we would have thought that sounded pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 Lowered off of a titanium screw in a frozen clump of moss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 quote: Originally posted by mattp: quote:Originally posted by HeadSpace: a old rusty pin and a star drive bolt, yuk! Not very many years ago, we would have thought that sounded pretty good. I was in attendence for that one. Pretty scary. Headspace forgot to add that off that rap, being the first rap, our ropes got stuck. Headspace prussiked up the ropes attached to that crap and freed the lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 myself wedged in a chimney ("backed up" to a loose root in the dirt at the back) directly under some big creaky blocks that my partner had to pull on and around while the only gear between us was an RP. fun! ... I will go back sometime. Anybody like a dirty chimney climb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Natural Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 I hear erik likes durty chiminies. as far as bad belay anchors...a good ledge and a firm stance? and thats not really all that bad sometimes... i heard once of a hanging fluke belay, can't really picture it. [ 10-30-2002, 10:42 AM: Message edited by: Mr. Natural ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted October 30, 2002 Share Posted October 30, 2002 quote: Originally posted by fern: myself wedged in a chimney ("backed up" to a loose root in the dirt at the back) directly under some big creaky blocks that my partner had to pull on and around while the only gear between us was an RP. fun! ... I will go back sometime. Anybody like a dirty chimney climb? my specialty....going to go get thrashed on one this weekend....with danimal.... also specialed had a belay like this....poor guy even lead the pitch in like a 3hr gardening push and only took 2 whippers...... everytime he pulled in rope he racked his knuckles accross the ceiling of the micro cave...and when i lead above him...i showered him in dirt and lichen..he had like 2 slings girthitched into his belay loop attached to something behind him.....and his legs were dangling out into this air...... icant wait for zion!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! bird-day death!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it was fucking great!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 I had to belay and rap off a small detached flake in Index. I went first. It worked out. Also have done "The Eiger Sanction Belay" (hip belay on a ledge, no pro) a few times because of no pro possiblities(none) on 4th/low 5th rotten rock. VERY last resort. [ 11-01-2002, 04:48 PM: Message edited by: Bill Simpkins ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klenke Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 At the top of yet another "obvious gully" that requires only "minor scrambling", I had finally had enough and rappelled off of my Beckey Cascade Alpine Guide. [ 11-01-2002, 09:55 PM: Message edited by: klenke ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 My partner once led a no-pro pitch at dusk without the rack, and had to belay off my chalkbag sling which was sewn shut with a 1948 Sears Kenmore sewing machine, wrapped around a dead tree, 1200' off the deck, to be followed on the next pitch with a belay on a single #4 (old style chouinard four, quite small) stopper placed in the dark that must have been good since it wouldn't come out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
North_by_Northwest Posted November 2, 2002 Share Posted November 2, 2002 A lot of the posts on this thread are like the old NO FEAR slogans. A climbing one would be funny: You have a small rigid stem friend halfway inserted into a horizontal crack and two opposing nuts that required constant tension to stay placed. Below you is a twenty foot runout. Your partner is about to follow the crux and he hasn't climbed in years... NO FEAR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plexus Posted November 7, 2002 Share Posted November 7, 2002 While belaying my better half up the last pitch in the Sierras this year, I had a two-piece equalizied anchor set up, mainly because we had to simul-climb and she was standing on a foot-wide ledge. The anchor was bomber, until a couple of 12-year-olds that came up the class 3 way with a parent pulled my hex out and asked what's this for? The other nut just fell out of the other spot because it wasn't under tension anymore. I grabbed the hex from the kid, my eyes looking like this and quickly set the anchor up again with one hand and belaying with the other while better half is climbing. Better half does not know about this. Don't tell her!! My favorite is being belayed up a rusty knifeblade, tied off in the middle and behind a flake that sounded as hollow as my head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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