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Chickenthief

recommendations for a 30L - 40L pack

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I'm after a alpine pack in the 30-40L range. I have been looking at the black diamond page and as a newbie, kind of bewildered by the range available.

 

has anyone had experience with the black diamond speed, axiom or axis packs, or can recommend any other packs in this 30-40L range? any particular features to look for other than crampons + ice tool attachments?

 

and do people find 30L enough for those 1 day alpine assaults with emergency bivy gear or is 40L more recommended?

 

All comments greatly appreciated!

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I have had one BD pack, a 45L Jackal. Would not buy it again, one of the frame wires ended up punching through the bottom pretty early in its life. It is now used by my gf until I build her one or she ponies up the dough and gets her own. She doesn't really like it either, though this may have a lot to do with fit.

 

My favorite pack so far has been my Gregory Alpinisto 35L. Tons of features and room for adjustments in fit. A great deal of thinking and design went into this one. I can't comment on durability yet as I've only had it for 2 seasons.

Edited by JoeR

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Are you looking for a bare bones/lightweight pack or something with a suspension system that will give you a comfortable ride? If you want the latter, I'd highly recommend the Osprey Varient. As one poster here put it "it borders on perfection"...

 

I just noticed a Varient 37 for sale here on this site a few hours ago. Check it, Yo!

Osprey Variant 37 Pro

 

If you are looking for bare bones/lightweight, check out CiloGear in PDX. "Crackers" is his handle here on CC.com and he'd prolly give you all the beta you need on his packs. Good luck.

 

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Cilogear 30 for most 1 day climbs. Cilogear 45 if you have to hump in a bunch of aid gear or are going in for a few days. They both climb really well and carry well on the hike in.

 

That said, if you're just getting started any decent 30-40 liter pack designed for being worn while climbing will get you by, some just make the process suck less.

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Mammut Trion Element 40. 2 lbs 12 oz. Hefty suspension. I use it for 3+ day trips. Second Ascent carries it.

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I love the Cilogear packs. They are hands down, the best carrying packs I've ever had on my back.

 

That said if you're looking to save some cash I have two of the above mentioned packs for sale.

 

Osprey Variant 52 climbing pack. Lightly used pack is in great condition with no rips or tears. $100.00 Link: http://www.rei.com/product/772421/osprey-variant-52-pack

 

Mammut Trion Guide 45 pack. Like new condition. $90.00. Link: http://www.rei.com/product/798293/mammut-trion-guide-45-pack

 

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whatever fits yr back the best with the gear youre going to carry ... features and light weight help, as does price ... but if the pack fits you must (fill in blank) ...

 

i use an osprey mutant personally ...

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I just got the black diamond axis today. Haven't used it yet but quality and features are comparable to any pack I've used.

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I have a BD Speed 30 - love it. It's great for day trips, probably a bit small for overnight or bivys. It carries weight (alpine rack etc..) well.

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I've done a few three day climbs with this size pack in the summer but would probably go for my 50l pack for winter or longer trips. Here are some of the things I like about the BD Speed 40 that is replacing my 10 year old Arc'teryx Khamsin 38.

 

Good compromise between durability and light weight materials

Roll top closure (not sure I'll ever use the lid)

Removable padding on the hip belt (the webbing belt stays in place instead of two independent hip belts)

Active suspension (never owned one before but think it's incredibly comfortable on the approach and flexes well while climbing)

Removable back panel

 

Things I don’t' like about the Speed 40 -

 

Jury is still out on the durability of the axe retention system

Have to rig your own crampon straps

Wish the bottom would compress like the Golite packs

Ice clipper slots are on the padding for the hip belt as well as the gear loops. This means that if you strip off the padding for technical climbing, you lose your ice clipper slot and gear loops. Not a big deal but sort of annoying to me.

Superfluous rope strap thing.

 

The comfort of the suspension on this pack compensate for the negative characteristics. I give it a 4 out of 5 stars.

 

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I have the BD Speed, Axis 33l, Cilo 30, and a bunch of others in my gear room.

 

The pack I am using on all of my alpine trips, however, is the Cilogear 30:30. Light, big enough for a big rack (or the rope inside or bivy gear), carries well on me, and climbs great due to it's narrow profile.

 

http://www.cilogear.com/3030.html

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do people find 30L enough for those 1 day alpine assaults with emergency bivy gear or is 40L more recommended?

A lot depends on the time of year and the terrain you'll be traveling on. If it's mainly rock and stable summer snow then I get by with 30L with stuff tied on the outside. If it's winter and I'm carrying skis, avy gear, snow saw, etc., then 45L. If you are leaning towards larger, the Cilogear 45L can hold far more than my 50L Kelty Redwing, which is not a great climbing pack, but fine for hiking.

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I also used the BD Speed 30 for quite a while, but last year bought a Deuter Pace 30. I find it much more suitable for alpine day climbing. It has side pockets for pickets or other gear, a rear shovel pocket, and a mesh pocket on the waist belt for small items (GU, lip balm, sunscreen, etc)...very handy. So far it has proved very durable, light, and comfortable to wear on approach and while climbing. Good luck finding a good pack for your needs!IMG_08582.JPG

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Check out the Vancouver WA start-up "Figure Four". They are Washington produced with innovative design, exceptional customer service and unparalleled quality control.

 

I got a Delta 35L about two years ago and have abused it on ice, alpine and rock trips since. The design is elegant, the load carries well and it's stripped weight is 1 pound 9 ounces. I use it for one to three day trips depending on the load (how much technical equipment)

 

They have a prototype of the Delta in "the white fabric", now called the Tau which I got about a year ago. Stripped to 1 pound 4 ounces, it's the best alpine pack I have used in 32 years of alpine climbing. This pack is poised to change the face of alpine climbing packs!

 

Chad Kellogg is new routing in Nepal right now with the Tau and with a forthcoming 50ish L version of the Tau he helped design. Chad has chosen these two packs as his go to for a whirlwind year... Nepal, Patagonia, Aconcagua, and another shot at the Everest Speed Record.

 

Matt Fioretti just returned from his 30th successful season guiding in Nepal with the new Tau. He loved it!

 

Ask for Steve at Figure Four Packs...

http://www.figurefourpacks.com/

 

Matt's Post about the Tau and his link to Figure Four...

http://www.himalayahigh.blogspot.com/

 

Chad's Partner Page shows his Figure Four connection too...

http://www.chadkellogg.com/partners.html

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I bought a CiloGear 45L over the weekend with the shovel pocket and couldn't be happier with it for split board touring. I already have about 12 miles of touring with it on 2 day trips.

 

I haven't loaded it up for an overnight trip but a split board set up alone is close to 20 pounds so I wanted something that could handle the weight well. I found that it is more stable than any previous snowboard pack I've ever had. It looks to be durable in the right places and light with just enough optional lash points to be a really flexible pack.

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Celio gear.

 

I picked up a brand new W/NW dyneema pack off another forum for a smoking deal and i am floored by how nice it is. I didnt pay the $500 retail price for it but i would in a minute now having seen one with my own two eyes. The web site does nothing for these packs. You gotta see em in person and get out and use em and you will be floored.

 

A $500 bag made no sense to me either but after getting one almost half off brand new i now understand the $500 pack. I will never own anything else. Better start saving for a 45L pack now though lol...

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Thanks for everyone's input. I've been eyeing HMG's ice pack after Ive been pretty happy with their non climbing version

HMG ice pack

 

I'm from Australia where $500-600 hiking packs are common. Nearly everyone here uses macpac or one planet

http://www.macpac.com.au/shop/en_au/gear-and-clothing/packs/packs-trek

 

But it seems like cilogear are hands down the concensus winner here. Never heard of them before in my part of the world. I like the look of those figure four packs too - similar to a mchale.

 

Many people here seem to have a smaller pack and a slightly larger pack. Ive already got 9 hiking packs but to get started in alpine climbing, probally best option is to go a smaller cilo and a slightly larger one in another brand like the figure four or something.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks for everyone's input. I've been eyeing HMG's ice pack after Ive been pretty happy with their non climbing version

HMG ice pack

 

I'm from Australia where $500-600 hiking packs are common. Nearly everyone here uses macpac or one planet

http://www.macpac.com.au/shop/en_au/gear-and-clothing/packs/packs-trek

 

But it seems like cilogear are hands down the concensus winner here. Never heard of them before in my part of the world. I like the look of those figure four packs too - similar to a mchale.

 

Many people here seem to have a smaller pack and a slightly larger pack. Ive already got 9 hiking packs but to get started in alpine climbing, probally best option is to go a smaller cilo and a slightly larger one in another brand like the figure four or something.

 

 

Wow that Hmg ice pack looks pretty sweet!! Thanks for the heads up on that one...

 

 

 

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But it seems like cilogear are hands down the concensus winner here. Never heard of them before in my part of the world. I like the look of those figure four packs too - similar to a mchale.

 

Do you know Siggy Chaloupka or Dom Lo? They're in Melbourne (Siggy) and in Sydney (Dominic)... they've got lots of CiloGear packs. There are a surprising number of CiloGear packs running around down there...

 

Personally, I think (of course I do, i own the company) that the CiloGear packs -- be it a normal worksack, a NWD worksack or a W/NWD worksack -- are totally superior to the HMG ice offering. For instance, 210d cordura with a dyneema ripstop gets trashed real fast by ice tools...

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