keenwesh Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 I've heard through the grapevine that you shouldn't use tools for a pullup bar, it screws up your elbows and the like. my question, what is the alternative? how do the washingtonians stay in shape for the short and fleeting ice season? I'm sitting in my dorm room here in bozeman procrastinating my studies and kicking myself for not going out on the ice for the 2nd day this weekend. seriously this place rocks. Help alleviate my boredom by giving thoughtful and helpful responses for at least 4 posts, after that go ahead and let it collapse into mindless shit slinging until it is either locked or moved to spray. What do ya'll have to say?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 the reasoning is that it doesn't allow your shoulder to rotate inward and flares your elbows out putting more stress on the outside. you can drill a hole through some dowel rods and sling them with some cord. very much like rock rings and the theory behind them. if you don't have elbow or shoulder issues, go ahead and use your icetools. thicken the grip and don't use the trigger rests to make it harder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted November 6, 2011 Author Share Posted November 6, 2011 I don't have shoulder issues and I'd like to stay that way. couldn't I potentially injure myself with the tools as opposed to dowels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordansahls Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 Here is Will Gadd's solution http://gravsports.blogspot.com/2009/11/its-come-to-this-plice.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el jefe Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 don't bother with pull ups. just get out to hyalite. you live in bozeman so whatever washingtonians do to stay in shape for their short and fleeting ice season is irrelevant in your situation. besides, knees-to-elbows and toes-to-bar are more relevant climbing exercises than pull ups. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farrgo Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 Agreed. I end up doing a lot of dowel work in the early season though. If your doing any pullups, deadhangs or KTE in your regular routine then make sure you're doing them with dowels instead. Grip strength, and more specifically just holding on for a long time is 95% of steep ice climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted November 7, 2011 Author Share Posted November 7, 2011 I'm going to try and make it to hyalite as much as I can, but that limits me really to just one day a week with school, homework, and (minimal) boozing occupying the rest of my schedule. Plus with the food court a measly 2 minutes away I have begun to thicken around my midsection (fucking deep fried everything every day, I'm not even kidding. The lettuce is wilted and inedible, unless it's smothered in honey mustard dressing) Having to bum rides off people makes things difficult as well. being able to get a few reps in between classes would be sweet and make these first few climbs of the season easier on my pathetically shrimpy forearms. How unethical would making a 8 story pillar out of my dorm window be? How much ice before a building becomes unstable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 yes, hangs are going to more useful than pull-ups, but might as well fire off a few and then hang Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJaso Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 May we collapse into mindless shit slinging now? I could use a good laugh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted November 7, 2011 Author Share Posted November 7, 2011 hold up on the shit just one sec, before we slip into that I want to get one more quick question answered by the ice climbing "gods" of this site. Tips for conserving energy and fighting the pump on vertical ice. I tried hanging straight off my tools, shaking out one arm at a time which kind of worked but at the hands free rest halfway up G1 I still had to fight off the screaming barfies and depump for a couple minutes. (in current conditions 40 feet of vertical ice to get there) Do I just need to suck it up and build my endurance or is my technique somehow way off. I feel like good ice technique is much less complicated than rock, and a rock climber with decent technique should be generally doing the right thing on ice. Is my feeling correct? PS: I know all about the wrist flick sticks and using flat mini bulges of ice to stand on. Alright perhaps I could perfect my wrist flick but is there anything else I should consider? -An aspiring ice padawan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 I'm no rockstar, I'm a PNW ice wanker, but I'll tell you a few things I have learned. I pump out way faster on ice than rock. I'm more scared and so I'm overgripping, and I'm using my feet less effectively. I figure the way to solve this is pretty obvious: practice. I also find shaking out to be much more important when holding ice tools than when rock climbing. Going leashless helps. I find that sometimes I get the barfies on the first pitch of the day, and rarely after that. I say just keep at it, you are probably going to learn an awful lot this year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannible Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 I didn't know that pullups on tools were bad for you. Good to know. A hang board helps (might not be able to hang it in a dorm though). Does your school not have a rec center with stuff like that though? I lived in dorms in my first year of school and got in good shape for my first time ever for the by climbing inside some, spending some time in the weight room, and running up and down the stairs over and over in my 10 story building (late at night, when there was no one around to think I was crazy). Will Gadd's site has a lot of good stuff. Read what he has to say about core strength. It can be pretty boring at first, but actually working at this stuff some really makes things a lot more fun and less scary. Also when you are young if you do this kind of stuff enough you don't have to worry about what you eat much, within reason. The probably have fruit there. Climb outside every chance you get. It sounds like you aren't using your feet enough. Stem like you're rock climbing, keep your heels low, and shake out all the time. Don't take anything too seriously. Climb, train a little, party, and do some school stuff all in moderation and things should turn out pretty well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted November 7, 2011 Author Share Posted November 7, 2011 yeah MSU has a rockgym, it's tiny though and there's no hangboard, so I don't go there. I try and swim laps 2 or 3 times a week to hold off the lard. Believe it or not I actually have laytons book, and I've been following some of the workouts in there, except on a much smaller scale. I'll give gadds site a look-see. Later this week I'm gonna con some of the guys in my floor into driving out to hyalite after class and toprope G1 with headlamps. Should be a good time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 http://www.alpkit.com/dryice Tim Emmett swears by these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted November 7, 2011 Author Share Posted November 7, 2011 http://www.alpkit.com/dryice Tim Emmett swears by these. those cost money, something I don't have much of. I've seen people wrap up the tips of their tools with foam or plastic or something and use that in the gym. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 They look like you could kludge together something similar pretty easily. Cut some grips out of a 2x4 and attach some industrial fanbelts: bingo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wetslide Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 I erected a mini mixed training wall in my backyard. Too bad you got suckered into going to school (kidding- I'm a grad student). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRep Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 OK seriously. As an MSU graduate I would do pull ups on tools off of my bed loft in South Hedges. For food, I can tell you to avoid the swag and go to Hannon - the food and view are much better there. To get stronger, avoid the on campus gym because it sucks ass. Instead go to Spire, it'll get you in ice shape real quick. And finally, if you want advice for ice climbing, go to Northern Lights, the guys there (Greg, Pete, Loren, etc..)are super chill and know their s**t. Don't ask for ice advice on this site when you have a resource like that. I miss Bozangeles! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevino Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 Get back to work dave! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted November 7, 2011 Author Share Posted November 7, 2011 DRep, I don't have the money or time for Spire. I'll make a trip down to northern lights and talk to them, although reading anonymous advice on the internet is much easier than walking to main street. You ever visit here in the winter? Wait are you the guy who I talked to in the LTW parking lot last august? you gave me props on the east ridge of inspiration... Now I find out you're a fellow bobcat! it's almost like destiny or some shit bringing us together, drive out here and lets go to cody! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRep Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 Get back to work dave! Suck it Kevino. Have fun with admits tonight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRep Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 I'm coming to Bozeman for Christmas and the week following... probably not when you will be there though. I am the guy who you talked to at the LTW parking lot. Oh, if only I had time off to make another trip out there to join you in Cody! Anywho, enjoy the season! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted November 8, 2011 Author Share Posted November 8, 2011 kick and scream and whine, preferably after consuming a bottle of wine. you'll get the "time off". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted November 8, 2011 Share Posted November 8, 2011 Fuck me! You live in Bozeman and wonder how to get in shape for ice climbing? That makes as much sense as living Curry Village and wondering how hard it is to climb at Arch rock. Get off you ass and just go climbing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted November 8, 2011 Author Share Posted November 8, 2011 Fuck me! You live in Bozeman and wonder how to get in shape for ice climbing? That makes as much sense as living Curry Village and wondering how hard it is to climb at Arch rock. Get off you ass and just go climbing thank you, kinda surprised it took this long to get this response. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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