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Mt. Rainier Climb - between Dec 4 - Dec 15


Rowan1

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Hi everyone, I'm looking for climbers to climb Mount Rainier with during the window from Dec 4th - Dec 14th. I've done winter climbs of Mount Washington in New Hampshire, but have not been out to the west coast before (I live in Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada). I've booked my flight to Seattle for Dec. 3rd so I'm open to climbing anytime between the 4th and the 14th (obviously, we'd pick the best weather window and make a summit attempt during that time). I'm a passionate outdoorsman and have always wanted to climb Rainier. I'm super easy going and consider myself to be in great shape. Please let me know if you're interested! Thanks, Rowan

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mmmmmmm..... May want to do some research ASAP as far as when you can climb the camp Muir DC route. Im not extremely experienced with the winter closure of routes, but I did see something about that when I climbed late Sept. Im sure someone will rip me apart on this, but heads up to look into it

 

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Of course winter climbing on Mt. Rainier is allowed, the rangers will help set you up with the permits and stuff.

 

Unsolicited advice to follow:

I would caution you to be proficient at glacier travel and crevasse rescue regardless of the winter conditions, as well as knowledgeable regarding avalanches and beacon usage.

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I don't think that there are any closures that will apply but I would guess that December may be the month where the least average year sees successful climbs on this mountain. This is not to be discouraging, however, but the simple fact is that the weather tends to be poor at that time of year and the snow conditions, too, generally unfavorable.

 

Mt. Rainier, however, is a worthy objective any time and plenty of parties have climbed it during the dark months of winter. You will not find Camp Muir to be crowded (assuming you are not climbing something other than one of the "standard" winter routes).

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Hi everyone. I've found one follow climber (he lives just outside of Seattle) who would like to join for this attempt of Rainier. We're going to cross our fingers for a good weather window of 3 days or so between Dec.4th and 14th. Is there anyone else who would like to join? Obviously, a larger group is best for crevasse rescue, if needed. I've been back and forth with the Park Ranger and a winter climb is certainly allowed (no closures). We'll just have to be very careful with the weather, avalanche potential and any snow that might hide crevasses. Please let me know if you're interested. Thanks, Rowan

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Rowan, keep in mind that besides general crevasse and avalanche danger, if weather closes in when you're above tree line you can't see shit and can't really move. Its a lot different than getting caught in a storm back east where, while cold and harsh, you can just walk out of it. That said, good luck. I hope you have good weather and conditions.

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As matt pointed out, early to mid December is typically a harsh time on the mountain. On average, between Christmas and New Year's is somewhat better but the best weather of the winter is typically in late January and early February (days are longer also). Here is an graph of average precip in Olympia that explains the trends better: http://www.esrl.noaa.gov/psd/cgi-bin/data/usclimate/city.pl?state=WA&lane=fast&itypea=1&loc.x=166&loc.y=191&.cgifields=itypea

 

Of course, this being a La Nina year, all that could go out the window. The main thing is to keep an open mind and not be afraid to pull the plug (and don't try and force a poor forecast). Generally it takes folks a few tries to bag a winter ascent of Rainier (for me, 3). Good luck, and be sure to post a TR (even if it isn't successful)!

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I made it up Rainier on my first try in a freak high-pressure system one January. It was definitely right place/right time. Hopefully the weather will come through for you, but if not, there are MANY other awesome things to do in the winter around WA and it tends to be much sunnier east of the Cascades. Good luck!

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