Julian Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 The overhanging wall in the center climbs itself, if only I had the cash. What's interesting about that one it seems to be so hard that even the Russian big-wall team hasn't done the dirretissima (their route traverses off to the right after climbing the main wall when it reaches the dark triangular upper face). Also with respect to Bhagirathi III and Peak 4810 (whose picture appears in the initial post), I'm curious as to why it's apparently not acceptable ascend those in the same manner as El Cap. Is it because there isn't a highway leading to the cliff and a hippy camp full of smelly dudes living semi-permanently at the base? I'm reminded of Topher Donohue's quote about the chopping brouhaha on Cerro Torre: "A bolt war is a bolt war no matter how many layers of stinky long underwear you need to put on". Substitute "aid climb" for "bolt war" and I think it still rings fairly true. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 the climbing technology improved drastically, hence if you throw enough resources together you will get to the top. And that's why the north ridge of Latok 1 has been climbed so many times, because people threw enough resources together to guarantee 100% successful outcome EVERY DAY I AM SPENDING ENOUGH MONEY TO BE MOST SUCCESSFUL CLIMBER Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laughingman Posted October 26, 2011 Author Share Posted October 26, 2011 Strangely, Andy Kirkpatrick recently attempted Troll Wall, he fixed lots of pitches. I didn't here a outcry from the climbing community. When a russian team climbed the Trango Towers in August the Alpinist read, "Russians Siege Trango, Put Up New Route". If a western team had done the same climbed it would have called capsule style. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keenwesh Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 I'm pretty sure they traversed off the top part because it was absolute choss and incredibly dangerous to climb. But yeah, that lower face could be ascended by my 80 year old grandmother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted October 26, 2011 Share Posted October 26, 2011 Silvo and Janez raged that Bhagirathi III face with only 3 bolts. Also they did it really fast compared to the russians and with no fixed lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 I will gladly hold a bake sale for whatever individual on this thread truly has the skills to say with a straight face they could climb one of these lines if only....sighhhh....they had the $$$ and time. Mikey (Wallstein) and John could both get up that given time and money. I don't know Sol up there at all, but he might as well. All they lack is the braggadocio to step up and say so verbally so that you will hold a bake sale for them, they have all the skillz and strength. Straight face. No bullshit. ps, I will help you eat the brownies if you have some, at your bake sale Dan. Which is why I won't even be carrying their jockstraps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 ps, I will help you eat the brownies if you have some, at your bake sale Dan. darin not dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laughingman Posted October 27, 2011 Author Share Posted October 27, 2011 "Mikey (Wallstein) and John could both get up that given time and money." Im sure they "could" but they don't have a oligarch to pay for such expensive a endeavor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crackers Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 (edited) I was alluding the fact most big wall climbers in the United States have never done technical aid climbing at 20,000ft+ with a full big-wall rack in horrid conditions and still have have the will to get up the next morning and do the exact same thing. Even give the money and time "most" Americans would quickly give up on such a exposed line on such a big route such as the Jannu. ] partially true. above 20k feet, the number is small. here are my suspects who have demonstrated no problem with the sufferfest of such aid at the highest level...and yeah, I use nick names. look it up... alpine Silverback. solo. more than once. idriveablacksprinterw/bike. yosarpjinak. CottonSocks. I know a bunch more, but they are probably too lazy and interested in drinking margaritas....I'd call it sensible! Edited October 27, 2011 by crackers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted October 27, 2011 Share Posted October 27, 2011 darin not dan I was just coming back from dinner to fix that and saw your post....opps. Thanks Mikeys pics are pretty darn good if anyone is into browsing. http://mikeyschaefer.photoshelter.com/gallery-list Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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